It’s low down dirty work gathering samphire. But that doesn’t mean it’s bad, just that you’ve got to get in the mud and squat, stoop, bend or crawl to pluck the tasty little stems from the earth. A trusty pair of Wellies are obligatory and, as I recently discovered, wearing kneepads would be a smart idea as well. Up until last week, picking samphire meant pointing to a container inside a deli counter and saying something along the lines of “May I please have 100 grams, please?”. Now, after accepting an invitation to Devon by Riverford Organic Farms to harvest wild samphire in the River Dart Estuary, I have a new appreciation for what goes into bringing this crisp and salty coastal treat to my London plate.