So nice I’m going twice! A recent visit to Clapton’s newly opened French eatery, The Bonneville, resulted in such a lovely experience for Kemey and me that we’re heading back ASAP for a repeat – this time with another couple in tow to whom we’ve raved about the place.
The Bonneville is just a short stroll from my flat (but I reckon I’d hanker for the place even if it was farther afield). My ice cold and non-pineapple-ized or otherwise unjustly augmented Mai Tai was expertly mixed and packed a wallop as an aperitif. And the food was an absolute treat!
Boudin noir with grilled chicory and radicchio (£6) was a flavoursome and substantial starter while fennel gratin with walnut and pickled tomato salad (£11) satisfied big time as my plat principal. Kemey’s extra chunky bouillabaisse (£14) of sea bream, sea bass, mussels and clams pleased as well (and had me stealing more than a few cheeky bites). An ample side of superbly cooked frites (£3.50) subdued any potential greedy longings for more to nibble.
For afters, an all French cheese plate (£7.50) did it for me to such a degree I recommend popping round if only for it while a glass of wine (from an especially smart wine list I might add), while a mega melty moelleux au chocolat with milk ice cream and cherries (£7) was as decadently oozy as Kemey had hoped.
All this yum amid a backdrop of distressed walls, a massive installed skylight, the odd pieces of taxidermy here and there (a rhino’s head?) added up to a mega win of a way to sip and sup.
Oh yeah, when you go be sure take a toilet break for a creepy if in a somewhat kitsch – dry ice and freaky audio – and rather gratuitous sort of way. There’s a whole other world to explore when heading down the stairs to the loos.
Gratuitous design shenanigans aside, I found The Bonneville to be a little more grownup and down to earth than some of the other eateries and watering holes to have sprung recently round this neck to fastly gentrifying woods. Hackney folk: do yourselves a favour and spend your time and money here. Everybody else: if you’re wondering why there’s so much racket at the moment about Clapton being such a snazzy part of town, here’s a good place to start understanding. See you there?
The Bonneville is located at 43 Lower Clapton Road, E5 0NS. Find out more at thebonneville.co.uk.
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