Modern British food served in a relaxed and homey setting with lots of candlelight in the evening (oh and to see lots and lots of jars) – I enjoyed my introduction to earthy ethos of Jar Kitchen on Drury Lane.
A member of the Sustainable Restaurant Association, Jar Kitchen’s menu features plenty of British fare (all meat sourced from Walter Rose & Son butchers in Wiltshire) with a contemporary European twist along with tasty items presumably picked up just round the restaurant’s Seven Dials corner (chiefly Monmouth Coffee and Neal’s Yard Dairy). And – from what I could ascertain at a recent tasting event – I it’s all in good hands with Chef Dominik Moldenhauer (ex-Heston Blumenthal’s Dinner).
Chicken liver parfait (served in a jar) with fig and onion jam and raisin toast (£6.50) was a good start to the tasting. Among Moldenhauer’s main course that I liked best were his seared monkfish with grilled baby artichoke, toasted spelt, lemon verbena and white wine sauce (£14) and the pigeon breast with coffee roasted carrots and braised shallots (£15). I was impressed by the triple cooked chips (£3.50) as well as a generous dessert helping of mini doughnut served warm and topped with cinnamon sugar and vanilla cream (£6).
The wine list is offers a glance around the world with value and no-fuss flavour seemingly the intended highlight. I especially liked sipping a glass or two of Cantina Orsogna Pecorino 2013 (£6.50 for a glass, £26 for a bottle).
Food would be the main reason I’d return to this newbie restaurant that’s already a stalwart haunt for locals. Still, the laidback (but by no means lackadaisical) and warm service (there’s a good chance you’ll encounter youthful and welcoming co-owners Lucy Brown and Jenny Quinter during any visit) wouldn’t keep me away. I liked the rustic feel of the place too and found Jar Kitchen to be a far cry and a world away from so many of the amped up and rather more jarring experiences associated with dining out at too many other places in the general Covent Garden/Seven Dials area.
Jar Kitchen is located at 176 Drury Lane, WC2B 5QF. Find out more at jarkitchen.com.
