It had been about a year and a half since my last visit to The Cavendish. But I remember my dinner there fondly. So when an invitation to come back to try newly appointed Head Chef Douglas Santi’s “100-layer” lasagna, I was all for it.
I’m pleased to report the restaurant is as lovely as ever with brasserie/pub downstairs and a more formal and rather elegant dining room upstairs. Service is polite and swift. As for that lasagna …
Wow! I feel like I have a whole new understanding and appreciation for the dish. Not some rigid scaffold of cheese and tomato paste stacked high as you might have come to expect to be served most anywhere in London, Santi’s version had a smooth and delicate texture and integrated, subtle flavour. Every mouthful was extremely delicious and balanced (fairly sweet and not so acidic) and a lot more sensual than I would have reckoned lasagne could ever be.
The ample dish is priced at £12 (a mere 12p per layer). A glass of Salice Salentino Riserva 2012 (Puglia, £5.50/125ml, £7/175ml, £28/bottle) was a superb sidekick during my visit. If you still can find the room, the pistachio and strawberry crème brulee (£6) yields a splendid end to a meal.
The Cavendish is located at 35 New Cavendish Street, W1G 9TR. Find out more at 35newcavendish.co.uk.