Chelsea mainstay, The Admiral Codrington, is a smart pub to keep in mind for a low-key rendezvous in an upscale atmosphere.
The pub has a rather resplendent dining area. But keen to soak up the sunshine on the especially sunny Sunday we visited, my friend and I dine outdoors on the deck (with pretty much everyone else at the pub that day).
Joining me for the meal was a good friend on holiday from the States whom I had not seen in years. The pub proved a perfect place for our long overdue catch up: casual but with a classy air about it, prompt and friendly service, quality drinks, and a solid menu aimed to please a spectrum of palates.
Given the postcode (SW3) I expected prices to be higher than they were. That’s not to say this was a cheap meal but certainly reasonable. If you’re one who’s inclined to go pubbing in the Chelsea/Knightsbridge frontier, you’ll hardly be put off.
About that menu. Some deep fried whitebait with tartar sauce and lemon (£5.50) set an appetizing tone. My starter – cured and torched mackerel with black and pickled cucumber, horseradish “snow” and fennel salad (£9.50) – was as delicious as it was highfalutin. A more down to earth avocado salad with orange segments, heritage carrot, shaved fennel, baby gem, parsley, and pomegranate (£8.00/£12.00) was a hit with my compadre.
For my main, I went with the roast Irish sirloin with red wine jus, seasonal veggies, duck fat roast potatoes and Yorkshire pudding (£16.50). Proper. My mate had the burger. Black Angus burger with smoked Applewood Cheddar, maple bacon, smoky BBQ mayo, slaw, baby gem, brioche bun, and triple cooked chips (£14.50). It was proper too.
A bottle of Goats do Roam (Mourvedre/Grenache/Syrah, 2014, South Africa, £29) paired well with our mains. There is plenty of variety in the wine list though and numerous options for guests looking to splurge on something special from the cellar.
A selection of ice creams and sorbets (£4.50) ended my meal with refreshment. My American friend’s choice of sticky toffee pudding with orange butterscotch and stem ginger ice cream (£7) was a wise one and a moreishly authentic introduction to this traditional British treat.
The Admiral Codrington is located at 17 Mossop Street, SW3 2LY. Find out more at theadmiralcodrington.co.uk.
