Head Chef John Harrison finds delicious inspiration in the bounty of the Cornish coast and brings fresh flavour to the modern British menu at Northbank Restaurant and Bar near St Paul’s.
Kemey and I were mightily impressed with the chef’s largely seaward leaning approach on ingredient and focus on Cornwall during our recent weekday dinner at Northbank.
The stars of the show during my dinner with Kemey were the starters. Every bite of my lime cured trout with salmon roe, cucumber and sea purslane (£10.50) was a mild and delicate moreish morsel. Scorched Cornish mackerel and belly ceviche with lemon verbena and mayonnaise (£9.50) (or the taste Kemey allowed me to snatch off her plate) was a treat as well. For my main, braised Cornish lamb’s neck with crisp sweetbreads, carrots and pistachio crumb (£19.50) rocked with gourmet gusto as did the brill with monk’s beard, butter-roasted Jerusalem artichokes and romanesco (£19.50) – though both lacked the finesse of those starters. My dessert – pear and raisin pain perdu with vanilla ice cream (£7.50) ended the meal on a clean and satisfying note.
Beyond the exquisite eats, smart reasons for choosing this riverside restaurant include its amazing views of the Globe, Tate Modern and the Millennium Bridge and the snazzy doings behind the bar (try the Northbank Smoked Old Fashioned for a cocktail with atmospheric presentation).
Northbank is located (at the base of the north end of the Millennium Bridge) at One Paul’s Walk, EC4V 3QH. Find out more at northbankrestaurant.com.