Dixie Detours: Sweet Shoals Music

Before our visit to the Muscle Shoals, I never would have imagined the music of Aretha Franklin could resonate even more with me than it already did. Goosebumps on top of goosebumps – how’s that gonna happen? But there I was standing in Studio A of Fame Studios in humble little North Alabama town where the mighty diva recorded such classics as Do Right Woman, Do Right Man, and something clicked in a deep and soulful sort of way. In the few days since Kemey and I checked out the Shoals, listening to Aretha’s songs has been coupled with an even deeper and more satisfying feeling than before.

But it wasn’t just Aretha who had graced this sleepy community situated on a narrow stretch of Tennessee River with her immense talent. Wilson Picket, Otis Redding, Percy Sledge, Etta James and plenty of other music legends defined a genre with the hits they worked on in the studios around Muscle Shoals. The songs coming out of the area weren’t just of the R&B variety though. Duane Allman, Lynyrd Skynyrd, Tom Jones, Cher, Bob Seger, the Osmonds and tons more big name artists booked sessions here. Indeed, the Rolling Stones recorded most of Sticky Fingers at the Muscle Shoals Sound Studio in Sheffield. Paul Simon recorded there too, making (in my humble opinion) some his most thoughtful music (Kodachrome, Still Crazy After All These Years) in the area or with the Muscle Shoals Rhythm Section in New York as his backing band. I could continue geeking out about this hidden gem destination. But let me save a bit of the discover to those who intend to travel there.

When You Go, Tell ’em tikichris Sent Ya

If y’all take away one piece of advice from my Dixie Detours miniseries, I hope it will be that you’ll try to make the effort to visit the Shoals. Of course I realise most of my readers live in the UK, and I’m not necessarily advocating crossing the Atlantic merely to visit this somewhat remote corner of northwestern Alabama. But music lovers would do well to augment any trip to, say, Memphis, Nashville, Tupelo or even New Orleans with a pilgrimage here. Fans of rock ‘n roll, rhythm and blues, soul and country music from anywhere in the world would find their time in this historic mecca of popular music to be an absolute pleasure. I sure did.

Now, I also known that good number of folks reading this post actually live in the general area near where I’m from. If you’re based in Chattanooga, Atlanta or anywhere within a few hours drive of the Shoals, you ought to pay a visit. It’s an ideal spot for a long weekend or overnight getaway. There are even direct flights twice daily from ATL.

I recommend starting your tour of the area with a visit to the Alabama Music Hall of Fame in Tuscumbia, for an eye opening lesson in the roots of American music – everybody from king of country, Hank Williams, to cosmic jazz pioneer, Sun Ra has called this Deep South state their home. After that, head over the Fame Studios to see where so much of the magic actually happened.

Aside from the connections to pop music history, there’s something for pretty much anybody. It’s a great area for enjoying the great outdoors, especially if you like to fish. Florence, Alabama has a vibrant little downtown with the iconic architect Frank Lloyd Wright’s Rosenbaum House (pictured above) just down the street for 20th century design enthusiasts. Ivy Green, the birthplace of Helen Keller, is nearby in Tuscumbia.

Stay

We spent an extremely comfortable night at the Marriott Shoals Hotel & Spa. Our room was huge with a private balcony offering great views over the massive pools and the scenic Tennessee River. Every member of staff we encountered was the exceptionally polite and helpful.

Find out more at marriott.com/mslmc.

Eat and Drink

Swampers Bar & Grill: We were only in the Shoals the one night. That evening we hung out at the hotel’s Swampers Bar & Grill. Like our room, it was incredibly comfy and spacious. Live music by way of local musician Barry Billings was appreciated as was the tasty Naked Pig Pale Ale from Gadsden, Alabama’s Back Forty Beer Company I had (and would be happy to have again and again). The hotel’s breakfast buffet was in the same space the next morning – good fixings!

Check out the bar’s Facebook page for more info:
facebook.com/SwampersBarandGrill

Garden Gate: Just a parking lot away from Fame Studios, the food we ate at Garden Gate was as soulful as the music recorded steps away. Sitting there for any early dinner it seemed as though everybody in town popped in for a plate of country style cooking. The fried chicken was juicy and tender, the turnip greens musty, and the buttermilk pie delectable. Service was delightfully deadpan.

I can’t find any online presence but here’s the Google+ listing:
plus.google.com/106223686081689594136

OH! Bryan’s Family Steakhouse: A rustic-y steakhouse in downtown Tuscumbia in a gorgeous brick walled and tin ceiling space, OH! Bryan’s was a down home and friendly establishment.I can’t vouch for the steaks though as we were there on Friday and that meant catfish!

For details go to ohbryans.com.

Keep an eye out for more highlights from my time in Georgia, Tennessee, Alabama, Louisiana and Florida along with suggestions for planning your own southern sojourn. If y’all ain’t never been to the places mentioned in my Dixie Detours miniseries, I reckon you’re missing out.