Situated atop a plateau yielding (yet more) beautiful panoramic views of the Douro River and its undulant valley, the tiny ancient village of Provesende was my final stop in the area. Here I took a quick wander round the village and a proper snoop inside 17th century mansion (with contemporary accommodations) Morgadio da Calçada.
Still owned by descendants of the same folks who built it, Morgadio da Calçadahas been impressively restored. With its centuries old collection of antiques and family heirlooms ranging from prehistoric to not-quite-vintage and a whole lot of properly old stuff in between, the mansion has the atmosphere of a secret museum of Old World charm.
I was only at Morgadio long enough for lunch and a look round its grounds. But I reckon it’d be a great place to stay for anybody wanting to get away from it all (but still only be about an hour or less from Porto) and seeking somewhere distinctive and comfy. The eight rooms here (in the converted stables) are modern and pleasant with plenty of outdoor space and a pool. I thought it was super cool how private the rooms were, but how the mansion was right in the centre of the village if you wanted to hit the local bar or check out the interior of Provesende’s over-the-top Baroque church (quite the contrast to its unassuming humble exterior).
Judging from my epic lunch (an amazing cod and olive soufflé thing), gourmand guests at the mansion are treated right … with phenomenally prompt service and by candlelight if so desired. Morgadio has its own small vineyard right outside the mansion. Their wines were among the best I had while touring the Douro. I especially liked the Tawny Port Reserve.
Be sure to check back soon for future instalments of my Portugal Please miniseries.
Pingback: Portugal Please: Amarante Quickie
Pingback: Portugal Please: Até Logo