A lovingly restored 18th century manor cum 21st century four star hotel and the centrepiece of a lofty patchwork of vineyards rolling down to the Douro River: Quinta Novo de Nossa Senhora do Carmo was my home for a night. Leaving Vallado for a full-on day of winery visits around the Douro, my second evening in this idyllic valley wound down in equal parts elegance and comfort.
Nearly ten kilometres of walking trails, two chapels (are those wedding bells I hear?), “winecaching” itineraries (geocaching around vineyards), biking excursions, masterclasses with the property’s expert chef, boating daytrips to/from Porto, and access to fun stuff at other facilities in the valley … Quinta Nova does it all and is a lovely setting for just about anything you can think of getting up to.
Food and drink here are excellent. Chef Jose Pinta wowed my supper time palate with a wholesome bowl of pumpkin soup with fresh herbs and a glass of aromatic and acidic Grainha Reserve 2012; a wonderful dish of locally sourced, melt-in-your-mouth veal cooked in a Port and jus reduction and served with Quinta Nova Reserva 2012; and an orange cake with almond “crush” paired with a 30 year old nonfiltered Clã Special Reserve Port. Yeah, another epic Portuguese foodie feast to add to my list – you’d do well adding it to yours.
As much as I loved the food and wine at Quinta Nova, the best part of my visit was simply the chance to take in the quinta’s extraordinary views. Even from the bath in my room, I had a sweeping panorama to admire. Walking around the grounds during the different times of the day, seeing how the light changed was such a treat. It’s a gorgeous place.
Be sure to check back soon for future instalments of my Portugal Please miniseries.
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