Beyond the tourist addled cobblestoned warren of Sultanahmet and its checklist attractions corralled by tour buses, alluring and sprawling Istanbul beckons with something for anyone of any budget (or, indeed, for those with no regard for budgets at all). Yes, of course the cliché of “east meets west” applies but so does “north meets south”, “ancient meets contemporary” and “religious meets secular”. An Easter weekend trip to this Turkish town too cosmo for one mere continent left me longing to return and continue experiencing its many (dare I say it?) delights.
Now, don’t get me wrong. There’s good reason so many folks flock to Sultanahmet. Chocked full of historic churches and mosques, quaint teahouses and cafes, it’s a brilliant place to explore; is well situated with easy access to public transport (as well as to Atatürk International Airport), lots of restaurants, shops and hotels; and is walking distance from major sites such as the Grand Bazaar and the Galata Bridge. During my visit, I stayed at Hotel Tulip House (nearby the very pretty and impeccably restored Sokullu Mehmet Pasa Mosque). Affordable and with a friendly and knowledgeable staff (not to mention the included and tasty buffet breakfast), it’s a good accommodation option that I’m happy to recommend. When you book, try for a terraced room with a view of the Bosphorus, which added a glorious overview to the start and end of each day of my trip.
For an even more spectacular view – and to attempt to get your head around Istanbul’s immensity – consider sunset drinks atop the Marmara Pera Hotel in “downtown” Istanbul at its rooftop Mikla restaurant. Wow. Located in the Pera neighbourhood, the hotel serves as a great base for more contemporary activities and guaranteed quality people watching around the pedestrianized Istiklal Street.
Seeking suggestions on where and how to best chow down in Eat-stanbul, I found ditching the guidebooks and relying on blogs to be a safe bet. Here are a few particularly worthwhile links:
http://rwapplewannabe.wordpress.com/category/turkey/
http://mathildescuisine.wordpress.com/2009/09/11/istanbul-city-of-delights/
http://hande.wordpress.com/2007/06/19/istanbul-street-food/
http://www.worldfoodieguide.com/index.php/the-best-of-istanbul-by-istanbul-eats/
As varied and ample as the above foodie recs are, I would like to add one unique eatery to the mix. It’s Saf. Yes, the same organic, raw food, vegan resto as on Curtain Road in London.
Saf (part of the greater Lifeco company) is actually of Turkish origin. As much as Turkey is celebrated for its savoury grilled meats, fabulous baked goods and yummy dairy products, it should be noted that fruits and veggies are exceptional in this largely agricultural country. Saf does ’em up right, allowing the flavours to speak for themselves. I had the most delicious carrot I’ve ever had in my life while dining at Saf. All the prepared dishes were devour-able – I absolutely adored the beetroot ravioli (cashew herb ricotta, tricolour carrots, balsamic figs and pumpkin seed oil). The hummus was irresistibly yummy too.
The “Simple Authentic Food” menu was similar to the one at the fine dining restaurant here in London but the vibe was much different. Whereas the London Saf fits in aptly with the East End edge of Shoreditch, the Istanbul Saf is more of a leafy suburban destination. Located within Turkey’s largest sport centre in the Coffee Club Sporium Akat, an energizing meal here might preface or follow an exercise session, relaxing swim or bath in its hammam. Also available at the centre (and at Lifeco’s luxe spa in Bodrum) is a detox program that has me wondering if a healthful return might soon be in the cards for me.
This post was originally published on the Qype Does London blog.
