Last week, I headed up to Leicester and Nottingham for an overnight press trip. I had a blast letting loose my inner armchair historian around Leicester and getting to live out some childhood fantasies in Nottingham and nearby Sherwood Forest. Here are some highlights from my East Midlands mini-break.
Leicester and Bosworth Battlefield
The big news round Leicester – just in case you hadn’t heard – is that the remains of King Richard III were found buried in what used to be a monastery and is now a car park. With this discovery have come much higher visitor numbers than ever before. From what I could tell, everybody involved is handling the increased demand quite well and with remarkable charm. Case in point would be the friendly reception from the folks at Leicester’s Guildhall.
A fascinating and historic attraction in its own right, before the Richard III find the hall was more likely to see 30,000 visitors a year. Since only February when the Richard III discovery was announced, the hall has seen more than 140,000 people coming to view it’s current exhibition, Richard: Leicester’s Search for a King. Not only about the recent discovery of Richard’s skeleton but also the science and practicalities behind the archaeology and more, it’s fun and information. For an even more thorough journey into Ricardian Leicester, I can heartily recommend a guided tour of the town as well. Ask for Blue Badge guide Steve Bruce.
Of course, just a short drive from town is the Bosworth Battlefield where Richard met his end and Henry VII became monarch ushering in Britain’s Tudor era. My visit to the field and museum led by the passionate Heritage Officer, Richard Mackinder, brought the story of battle and the War of the Roses to life for me.
This was my first time to visit Leicester. It’s a lovely little town and much more pleasant than I had been led to believe over the decade I’ve lived in London. I’d be pleased to return and I’m confident it’s worth your while to visit too.
Nottingham and Sherwood Forest
From Leicester I took a quick (20 minutes or so) train ride to Nottingham to round out my full-on day of Richard III-iness by catching a performance of Shakespeare’s Richard III at the Nottingham Playhouse. Great stuff! And The Bard’s words had never resonated with as much relevance for me. The play runs until 16 November and then moves on to the York Royal Theatre from the 19th.
I spent the night at the Nottingham Park Plaza – great location, comfy bed, above average brekkie – and got up the next day for a stroll round the Castle, including a tour of Mortimer’s Cave. Lunch was yummy and especially evocative at Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem, the oldest operating pub in England. It was such a thrill just being in this ancient inn build within a manmade cave at the base of the castle rock. I loved my pint of Nottingham Brewery Extra Pale Ale too. If you’re into craft ale and history, a visit to Nottingham for elbow bending at the Trip and other local pubs is definitely in order!
After lunch, the rest of my day was spent playing Robin Hood in Sherwood Forest. So much fun – and a childhood dream come true for me. I was a huge fan of the legend of Robin Hood as a kid. Simply being there in the forest and learning about the myths and realities of Robin Hood at the visitor centre were thrills for me. It’s a lovely piece of countryside as well.
Getting There
I took the East Midlands train up to Leicester from St Pancras, across from Leicester to Nottingham and then back to St Pancras. It was smooth sailing the whole way. I had the pleasure of riding first class – total comfort, excellent WiFi connection, tasty bacon sarnies for breakfast – and found it to be a delightful way to travel.
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