Tasty Tales from the Italian Ham Highway: Modena: Fast Cars and Slow Food

From the heights of the snowcapped Dolomites to the verdant Valle del Cibo, I recently had the delicious pleasure of visiting a number of the finest food and drink producers in northern Italy, taking in lots of pretty countryside along the way and getting to known some of the friendliest people I’ve ever met.

The last full day of my Ham Highway itinerary commenced with a lovely breakfast tour round the Pallavicina farm followed by a ride over to Modena, about 100k down the road. Modena’s one of those places I’ve wanted to visit since I got my first taste of Italy several years back. Being there exceeded my expectations and left me hankering for more.

For a town with a population of fewer than 200,000 people, the list of icons associated with Modena is impressive. Pavarotti, Ferrari, Maserati, Balsamico, tortellini … whatever floats your proverbial boat, odds are you’ve been inspired by someone or something Modenese at some point in your life.

Modenatur

Before I get too far into my spiel about all the cool stuff I got to see and do (and eat and drink) in Modena, I should mention that much of what I experienced was organised and presented to me by my guide for the day, Francesca Stradi of Modenatur. Modenatur is a travel agency and tour operator based in Modena that can help visitors with pretty much any aspect of their trip to Modena and the region of Emilia-Romagna. Francesca was a lovely host – efficient with her time and very knowledgeable. She seemed to have as much fun exploring her city as I did. I can’t recommend Francesca’s guide services enough!

Find out more at modenatur.it.

Foodie City

Modena is a fantastic destination for food shopping. When there keep an eye out for shops, bars, cafes and other retailers with a “Bottega Storica” sticker at the entrance. Basically, that’s a seal of approval from the local chamber of commerce and a sign that the shop is of historical significance. There are more than a few of these gems dating as far back in origin as 1605.

Here’s a link to a downloadable pdf with a complete listing, an easy to read map and more info. It’s only in Italian but is still a useful reference:
comune.modena.it/economia/in-primo-piano/albo-comunale-delle-botteghe-e-dei-mercati-storici/depliant_botteghe_storiche

Vroom

Okay so maybe the first thing that comes to my mind about when thinking about Modena is the food, but for many if not most folks, Modena means one thing: super cars. Home to Maserati and Ferarri, the local traditions pertaining to food and drink might involving slowing down, but Modenese driving is a completely different story. But whether you’re behind a plate of home made pasta or the wheel of a luxury sports car, one thing is for sure: it’s all about stylish and quality craftsmanship here in Modena.

A great place to ogle a historic line up of Modena’s most famous metallic beasts is the newly opened Museo Casa Enzo Ferrari. For details go to museocasaenzoferrari.it.

Eat

Bar Schiavoni: When in Modena … built into a corner of Modena’s must-see Mercato Albinelli fresh foods market, Bar Schiavoni is a humble little sandwich shop (and one of the city’s Bottega Storica venues) which sources its ingredients from the adjacent market for a regularly changing menu. Economic and delectable, I loved my toasted pancetta, radicchio, smoked cheese and Balsamico sandwich washed down with a glass of Lambrusco and followed by an espresso! facebook.com/bar.schiavoni

Osteria Stallo del Pomodoro: Not only did I get to eat here, but I helped prepare my meal. Lucky me (and thanks again Modenatur), I had the privilege of attending a one-on-one cookery lesson with Osteria Stallo del Pomodoro’s Head Chef, Massimiliano Telloli. My minimal Italian and his non-existant English did not stand in the way of learning how how to make – and more importantly to appreciate the dexterity behind – classic regional pastas like tortellini, tortelloni, tagliatelle, and ravioli. On to my meal, I was mightly pleased with the results. The tortellini en brodo was delectable as was everything I tried at this quaint and homey tavern. stallodelpomodoro.it

Stay

I stayed at Hotel Liberta for my one night in Modena. A three star property owned by Best Western, it was as comfy as required and – smack dab in the heart of the city and walking distance to all of Modena’s main attractions – the location could not be beat. Free WiFi, friendly staff, no worries – it’s a great place to keep in mind for an affordable city break.

Go to hotelliberta.it for details.

For more about Modena and the region of Emilia-Romagna visit emiliaromagnaturismo.it.