Leaving the Almojanda farm, I hit the open road for an afternoon in the UNESCO World Heritage city of Evora. The hour and a half drive was pure scenic joy. I’d been to Evora before years ago and getting to go back there was a treat – and something I’d be happy to repeat several times over. Indeed, when talking with the Sunvil folks about the design of my Festival of Food itinerary I specified that I was especially keen to stop in Evora.
With its medieval ramparts and Roman ruins, its whitewash walls trimmed in yellow and its shadowy and steep little lanes opening up to expansive and sundrenched plazas, it’s an evocative and unique place where there’s plenty to see and do if you wish. Though if you ever wanted to “get away from it all” and keep a low profile, I reckon Evora would be an idea destination.
To be honest, I didn’t do much during my Sunday afternoon visit. I had a fantastic lunch (of course) and then took the opportunity to soak up some sunshine, take a gazillion photographs and check out an especially spooky and ancient attraction.
Lunch was at O Fialho. Considered to be one of the best restaurants in the whole of the Alentejo, the rustic and homey Fialho was founded by Manuel Fialho in 1948 and is still run by his children, Amor and Manuel, and grandchildren who ensure the kitchen’s focus continues to uphold traditional regional cuisine. I reckon the house speciality is the borrego assado (roast lamb). The dish certainly came highly recommended – and it was definitely the season for it when I was there. I was by no means disappointed with my generously portioned plate of the tender meat.
Indeed, I thoroughly enjoyed everything I ate while there. A starter of rare and short season túberas served with scrambled eggs was a particular delight. Túberas, according to my waiter, are a sort of white truffle, not to be confused with the more famous (and honestly more delicious) white truffles found a couple of countries over. I loved my yummy dessert of home made cinnamon ice cream too! A glass of local quaff, Comenda Grande, hit the spot and cosied up nicely with my lamb. Service at Fialho was a dream, extremely prompt and polite.
After lunch, I strolled around and paid a visit to one of Evora’s best know sites, the Capela dos Ossos, the “Chapel of Bones.” A small interior chapel connected to the side entrance to the lovely (and equally worth a visit) Church of St Francis, the Capela dos Ossos is a 16th century ode to the transience of life built by a Franciscan monk using the skeletons of more than 5,000 deceased. More poignant than gruesome, it’s nonetheless a bit of a creep fest to behold. So yeah – it was totally up my alley, and I would highly recommend going there to anyone who’s planning to be in the area. I think I was charged €2 just to get in and another euro to be allowed to take photos.
Be sure to check back soon for future instalments of my Portugal Please miniseries.
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