Portugal Please:  Sniffing Around Quinta do Vallado

After a quick sightseeing jaunt and overnight stay in Porto, I was off to the Douro Valley to the Douro Valley for a few days of scenic sipping. My first night there, I had the ultra-luxe pleasure of spending some time – and a very restful night – at Quinta do Vallado. To put it plainly, I loved everything about this place. It hurt a little to have to leave and I’m aching to return for another chance to admire in situ this wine hotel’s blend of tradition with modern design; savour more of its homey food; and, of course, enjoy its fabulous wines.

Established in 1716 and once owned by the legendary Dona Antónia Adelaide Ferreira and still in the hands of her descendents, Vallado is one of the oldest and best known of the Douro quintas. The grounds are gorgeous with modern accommodations and facilities joined with the age-old structures and rollicking terraces of the vineyards. It’s a juxtaposition of styles to be sure but one that works well (in my humble opinion anyway), functioning as a bridge between Vallado’s past and its activities today.

For me, being there was like experiencing the best this fabled valley had to offer. My room featured lovely views across the valley (as all of the quinta’s rooms do) from my spacious private balcony. I loved strolling around the place (with the family’s puppy tagging along) to check out the pool, all the orange trees and lush gardens, and the thoughtfully curated design elements throughout the hotel.

That essence of Douro feeling resonated even moreso over a fantastic dinner. Maybe all the luscious wine influenced my opinion, but I remember the meal as one of the best I’d had in a very long time.

From the homemade and smoky alheira sausage and nibbles served with a floral and crisp Muscatel Galego … to the obligatory (and scrumptious) course of cod matched with a subtle and lemony Reserva Branco … to the seasonally obligatory roast lamb (gorgeous!) with a currant-rich and juicy Sausa … to the amazing dessert of sliced oranges in a white Port reduction dusted with cinnamon and dark chocolate enjoyed with a glass of 20 year old tawny … (and finally) to the Alentejo cheese and pumpkin jam paired with Adelaide Vintage Port – it was all good.

So good in fact, I enquired about the chef at the end of dinner. My host, general manager Francisco Ferreira, gave me a satisfied glance and explained that they didn’t have a chef, “just cooks who grew up learning to cook the local recipes.” A few minutes later, a couple of young women walked out of the kitchen (one of whom, appearing to be several months pregnant, had checked me into the hotel earlier that day) to accept credit for such a phenomenal feast.

Be sure to check back soon for future instalments of my Portugal Please miniseries.