It’s nice being pleasantly surprised, right? And that’s just what I was during a recent dinner at newly relaunched Le Menar restaurant in Fitzrovia. It wasn’t that I had been expecting any sort of substandard meal; I just didn’t realise Head Chef Vernon Samuels’ “modern approach” to North African and Middle Eastern cuisine was going to be so inspired, thoughtfully prepared and intriguingly tasteful.
Ideal mezzes include the za’atar burrata (with Heirloom Tomato salad, £8); the so much better than at first might sound (and ultra tahini enhanced) hummus and wasabi (£4.50); and the Lebanese spiced squid (pan fried squid with almond, Agen prunes, red pepper and harrisa, £8). There’s plenty more to the starters and mezze menu too – and I’d love a chance to carry on dabbling my way through it sometime soon.
From the menu’s more substantial side, the tajine of lamb neck braised for four hours with cinnamon, paprika, coriander, aubergine, batata harra and truffle oil (£16) proved a mighty main course to savour and a dish that days after tasting it is still something to be raved about with ease. For dessert, fried vanilla ice cream with salted caramel dates was an absolute treat (£8.50, followed by fresh mint tea). In fact, why salted caramel dates aren’t yet the “next big thing” is a little beyond me after having now enjoyed them.
I found Le Menar’s setting to be pretty much what one might expect of a North African restaurant in central London, with lantern-lit nooks, lots of cushions, terra cotta walls, wobbly metal tabletops (which all seemed somehow to work towards making Chef Samuels’ creations that much more delicious when presented).
Service was effective and friendly, if a little preoccupied with other things, during my visit. There’s a good wine list and well stocked bar.
I would be keen to return, was greatly impressed with the food, and am happy to recommend this restaurant to anyone seeking flavoursome dining experience.
Le Menar is located at 55 Cleveland Street, W1T 4J. Find out more at lemenar.co.uk.
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