Tredwell’s by Marcus Wareing

Often before heading to a restaurant for the first time I’ll have a look online at existing reviews about the place to know what to keep an eye out for and maybe to avoid. For my Sunday lunch visit to Marcus Wareing’s “modern British” Tredwell’s, I should have just avoided reading the reviews all together and let my gut (which is now a good bit larger after my Tredwell’s meal) guide me in the right direction.

The snide attitudes issued in write ups published in the Evening Standard and the Independent suggesting Tredwell’s was “cynical” and “passable” seemed to be just that – cynical and passable diatribe having at a successful chef for trying to bring something yummy to the high street.

What’s a restaurateur to do? Hide away in a cloistered Knightsbridge kitchen for the rest of his professional career or take a chance near Leicester Square with aplomb and a reasonable priced menu in a comfortable and attractive setting? I reckon the latter is a much braver – and in the long run considerably savvier – action than the former.

I liked my lunch at Tredwell’s. And if this “gateway” eatery might lead folks to hanker a more sophisticated experiences at Wareing’s two Michelin star restaurant at The Berkeley (never had the pleasure but have heard the raves) or his Gilbert Scott brasserie at the St Pancras Renaissance (have been a few times and absolutely adored it), then all the better.

Definitely a more down market take on dining out compared to his other venues, Tredwell’s offers an assortment of au courant dishes that err on the side of playful and hearty.

I savoured every bite of my starter course of prawns, white polenta and roasted garlic in chicken broth (£9.50) and thought my massive main course of Rhug Estate smoked slow cooked beef short rib (£29) was super satisfying. So what if it wasn’t all that terribly refined? Not to get all ecclesiastical about such things, but there’s a time and a place, ya know – and that goes for high street gourmand grinds as much as it does for fanciful haute cuisine. Sides like creamy kale slaw (£5) and chunky sweet potato fries (£5) did not disappoint while a damn fine made-to-order (and not on the drinks list) Bloody Mary impressed greatly. A “housemade” salted caramel soft serve (£5, with gratuitous honeycomb) was a treat!

Service was polite and on the ball (particularly from the fellows behind the bar). The dining area (all three floors of it!) was attractive, filled with natural light (even the basement to some degree) and pretty comfy too!

If Tredwell’s sounds like your kind of place to eat and drink, a great time to go might be from 5pm to 8pm on Sunday 19 April when the restaurant’s downstairs bar will host a special Gin & Jazz night with New York-based double bass player Rob Duguay and Parisian-born saxophonist Alex Terrier. The jazz duo will present an exclusive intimate live set ahead of their performance at Ronnie Scott’s on 20th April. The event will be priced at £15, which includes a Bebop cocktail (Gin, Aperol, Strawberry and Rhubarb) as well as a contribution of £2.50 to the Mousetrap Charity. The band will play from 5pm to 8pm.

Tredwell’s is located at 4a Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9NY. Find out more at tredwells.com.