A Taste of Puglia: Eatingtikichris

Love seafood? Go to Puglia. I had such exquisite meals there, with the star of dinnertime show always something from the sea freshly caught and deliciously presented. I can think of a handful of other destinations that might rival the region with respect to its maritime cooking – but only a very few, and they are among my favourite places in the world.

If a dietician were to design a food pyramid based solely on my most preferred eats, it would have giant tentacles extending from its based and wrapped around it to the top. Squid … octopus … cuttlefish: I had so much of it – along with all sorts of other bounty of the sea dishes – always sumptuously presented but with minimal fanfare while visiting Puglia … and at such low prices (from my gouged Londoner perspective anyway).

Beyond the depths of the deep blue, edibles yielded from the Pugliese land were a dream for a gourmand like me ever on the search for rustic flavour. Bitter greens were always on prominent display at any table, and southern Italian items as foreigners might cravenly expect (pasta, tomato sauce, olives) were never far away and always prepared to a high standard.

Anyhoo, enough with the waxing poetical. Let’s get down to the scrumptious nitty gritty with a list of my best bites from Puglia.

Le Zie Trattoria di Perrone Anna Carmela
Via Costadura, 19, 73100 Lecce

A downhome foodie institution in the heart of Lecce, this popular house-converted-into-a-restaurant served one of the best meals I’ve had all year. With a focus on regional cucina casareccia (traditional made from scratch home cooking) served in a comfy and welcome setting and bolstered by a fantastic Pugliese wine list, I loved everything about my dining experience there, especially the local favourite polpo in pignata (octopus with tomatoes cooked in an terracotta pot). I had the pleasure of dining with colleague Gareth Jones, who’s published his own loving tribute to our wonderful meal; read it here. For more about Le Zie (and to make a reservation), visit the trattoria online at lezietrattoria.com.

La Rusticana
Via Vittorio Emanuele II, 73100 Lecce

I had a cheap and cheerful taste of local pastries such as the savoury rustica and the think and custardy pasticciotto at this humble yet seemingly constantly buzzy little bakery and pizzeria. More at larusticalecce.it.

Marechiaro
Lungo Mare Marconi, 73014 Gallipoli

So much seafood in a floating restaurant over crystal clear water surrounding by boats and just steps off the shore. For a taste of the region’s famed gambero rosso and a copious variety of fish, raw bar options and more, Marechiaro appeared to be as good a choice as any. Check out the Marechiaro Facebook page for more info: facebook.com/pages/Ristorante-Marechiaro-Gallipoli/160371790675307.

Le Saittole

One of the main reasons I was invited to visit Puglia was to attend Artigianato d’Eccellenza, an annual craft fair in Lecce held in the historic Piazza di Giosue’ Carducci and at the deconsecrated church of San Francesco della Scarpa next to it. The fair featured plenty of pretty things to look at but not a lot of food; still, the food producers who were exhibiting were making some really tasty stuff. I was particularly taken with the offering of Elena Georgopoulos, who produces an amazing range of olive oils (from an array of olives including wild local varietals, preserves and pestos at the ancient farm that’s been in her family for many generations, under the lable Le Saittole. Everything Elena let me sample wowed my palate, notably her yellow pepper and courgette with mint “creams.” I was foolish not to bring a load of her products home with me. Have a look at Le Saittole online at lesaittole.com.

I Murgini

I Murgini is a farming collective based in Alta Murgia rural park with a mission to grow “organic lentils and ancient grains” and produce from them products “void of refined sugar and artificial additives” and an aim to reduce air pollutant emissions, renew the organic soil fertility, protect the environment, and produce healthy food. Heroes! And, of course, the byproduct of such an eco-friendly ethos is awesome flavour.

The collective had been in touch with me via email ages before I even knew I’d be heading down to Puglia. Unfortunately, I didn’t get the chance to meet up with any members during my trip. But I am dying to go back and spend a decent chunk of time checking out what they do.

I Murgini’s guiding principles very much match with my own gastro-aspirations. I was pleased to receive here at my London home a package of gorgeously flavoursome and back-to-basics products from them, which inspired a few new recipes … but more on that to come!

Find out more at imurgini.it.

Next post in my Taste of Puglia series? What to drink with all this gorgeous food!