Invited by two Champagne houses – GH Mumm and Perrier-Jouët – for an overnight visit to the Champagne region for a meet with their Chefs de Caves (Didier Mariotti of Mumm and Hervé Deschamps of Perrier-Jouët), I enjoyed a behind the peek of what goes into blending two of the world’s most celebrated quaffs and how distinctive each is. A bubbly affair to be sure, the occasion served as an excellent opportunity to discover how these wines differ, while enjoying two showcase dining experiences (one for each wine) crafted by in-house chef for both Mumm and Perrier-Jouët – Josephine Jonot.
Each meal was top quality and tantalising but a stark contrast to the other.
First up was dinner with Mumm inside the historic Moulin de Verzenay set atop a hill with vineyard views. The idea behind this meal was to taste how the Mumm’s signature cuvées would pair with “daring foods” – a smart plan and appropriate challenge for a house with a reputation based as much on having avant-garde flair and pioneering spirit as being the go-to bottle to pop open for any serious victory celebration.
Courses included an escargot canapé and an oyster amuse-bouche (with Mumm Blanc de Blancs); a “nest” of crispy eggs with a mousse of monkfish liver (with Mumm Cordon Rouge); veal sweetbreads and kidneys with beef fillet, vegetable “coal” and artichokes (with Mumm Cuvée R Lalou 2002); and a tropical fruit flavoured “fishbowl” dessert (with Mumm Rosé). For me the dare was not so much feeling up to eating such boldly flavoursome dishes but attempting to restrain myself from wolfing it all down too voraciously while being seated in polite company, as I was keen to devour each rich course with gusto. The wines were paired with precision tempting me even moreso to give the food placed before me a heartily gourmand go.
If supper with Mumm was about brave avant-garde dining, lunch the next day with Perrier-Jouët was discerningly delicate. Served in the prettified cellars at Maison Perrier-Jouët, the meal commenced with a three-way amuse-bouche of sea urchin, scallop, and frog’s leg (with Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs 2002); followed by an “anemone” of lobster with cucumber and citrus jelly made to look like Perrier-Jouët’s icon and flowery labelling (with Grand Brut); turbot with seaweed and legumes (with Belle Epoque 2007); and a “secret” of coconut (with Belle Epoque Rosé 2006). I loved every fanciful bite – and sip – of this exquisite lunch. Flavours were as subtle but deep. As has long been recognised by in-the-know palates for almost as long as Perrier-Jouët has been produces, its cuvees are especially splendid when enjoyed alongside fish and seafood dishes.
Chef Jonot’s flexible and confident approach to pairing food with sparkling wine dazzled. In my humble opinion, this competent and expressive chef is flying way below the foodie radar to be making such awesome – and awe inspiring – food. I’d be very much up for and more than appreciative to go at her grand cuisine anytime again. One to watch!
Notes
Getting to Champagne was a breeze. From St Pancras in London, I hopped the Eurostar changing at Paris for a 40-minute TGV train to Reims. I stayed at the centrally situated and comfortable Best Western Hôtel de la Paix. Visiting the Maisons and cellars of GH Mumm and Perrier-Jouët was a pleasure – and very much something open to the public to do. Plenty more Champagne houses are open to visitors throughout the year as well. My quickie whistle stop tour of only these two certainly whet my appetite like an aperitif before a lavish meal. I would relish in a fuller, longer opportunity to explore the area.
For more about GH Mumm go to mumm.com.
For more about Perrier-Jouët, have a look at perrier-jouet.com.
