QP LDN

Fine Southern Italian cuisine – and exceptional wine – is on impeccable display in Mayfair’s luxurious QP LDN.

This Dover Street destination restaurant offers wow factor interiors and luscious flavours, for those willing to splurge.

Once upon a time not so long ago, QP LDN launched as Quattro Passi, the sister outlet to Chef Antonio Mellino’s two Michelin star Amalfi Coast restaurant. I’m not sure why there’s been a name change, but it might have to do with some less than glowing (and some downright snarky) reviews from its early days. The gist of those reviews seems to be that the restaurant is expensive.

I can second that motion. £18 to £20 for starters and pasta plates price between £17 and £30 are painful reminders of the growing divide between the select few super rich and everybody else in this town. Burrata with rocket and cherry tomato salad for £18 – no matter how yummy – was outrageous. Though essentially the same price for an inventive and intriguing squid tagliatelle with cauliflower made a more sense to me; it certainly tasted great and had a yielding texture demonstrating considerable kitchen skill. A gorgeous and nicely al dente trofie with clams and pecorino cheese (£21.50) was good value for flavour, if served in a slightly less than generous portion. I felt prices for main courses were a little more in line with what London diners might expect. A delicate fillet of line caught sea bass with zucchini cream and Mediterranean sauce weighed in at £30.

Perhaps most eye-poppingly pricey – but also most exquisitely moreish – was the pistachio gelato for £40 (minimum two people). Made fresh upon order with pistachios from Bronte, Sicily and finished off at table (reminiscent of having a steak tartare prepared at your table) with ample amounts served – it was without doubt the best (richest, creamiest) pistachio gelato I’ve had in London, with an exceptionally long finish. For fans of pistachio, I reckon it’s a worthy indulgence.

Of course, if you’re prowling around Dover Street in search of cheap eats you’re on an ill-fated mission to begin with. But I should point out that QP offers a fairly reasonable lunch menu (for Mayfair anyway) with two courses for £30 and three for £37 and a similarly somewhat affordable bar menu available from 3pm to 11pm.

Money aside …

I couldn’t fault the food or its plated presentation. Moreover the dining area with showpiece marble top bar, moody lighting, and comfortable spacious seating was as lovely a place to eat as any within earshot. Service during my visit was extra swift, politely informative and memorably charming. When was the last time I had an in-depth, rather hilarious conversation about London as an ideal city for wearing scarves?

Wines served during my meal paired perfectly with the dishes, compliments to a savvy sommelier and wine staff. I loved my glass of Pala Silenzi Vermentino with my squid and my Peppoli Chianti with my trofie. A Chaudelune ice wine (with an inviting oregano nose) was a lovely accompaniment to the pistachio gelato.

If you like your upscale way up and you’re willing and able to pay for it, you can’t go wrong with dinner at QP LDN.

QP LDN is located at 34 Dover Street, W1S 4NG. Find out more at qp-ldn.com.