Where to Dine in Dublin | The Winding Stair

Given its prominence in guide books and listicles as well as its tourist-accessible location near the Ha’penny Bridge, my instinct was to stay clear of The Winding Stair. Then I read the menu.

A few of the most luscious words to  lure in me were as follows:

• Chestnut crumbed Toonsbridge scamorza, bitter leaves, picked fennel, radish and clementine salad with marjoram and lemon dressing;
• County Mayo wild venison sticky ribs with kohlrabi slaw and quince ketchup; and
• Belmullet black face lamb’s liver and pancetta crumbed corned mutton with crispy sage and onion polenta, roasted onion squash and gravy.

That the written word was reason for me to head inside for lunch seemed apt. This well established venue is probably better known for its downstairs bookshop and café than for its upstairs restaurant (and yes up a series of steps with a bend). I was there on the late side of lunch and the beautifully dark wood and otherwise rather utilitarian dining area was sparsely populated with a set of gentlemen who lunch. I took them to be older creative of some sort or other, maybe a couple of upper managerial types mingling with them. Whoever they were, their presence made a mid 40s me seem like a young’un.

I loved it. Old school. Stodge. Hearty. Just like that menu, which was also scrumptious to the core, ideal for countering the wintry weather outside, and elegantly presented.

I also loved my accompanying glass of Zuleta oloroso (£6.50) and that there was a chalkboard hung to share the day’s offer of sherries.

Lunch prices were as listed:

• One course with a glass of house wine €24.95;
• Two courses €21.25; or €27.95with a glass of house wine;
• Three course €26.95; or €32.95 with a house of glass wine.

I thought the pricing was great value given portions, quality and flavour.

Service was cordial and quick.

The Winding Stair is located at 40 Lower Ormond Quay, North City, Dublin 1, D01 R9Y5. Find out more at winding-stair.com.

Keep an eye out for upcoming suggestions on Where to Dine in Dublin.