Photo by Geoffrey Davies
Join Judith Schrut in the Redwood Forest as her California odyssey continues.
Northern California’s incredible redwood forests are a natural wonder not to be missed. Trees growing here are amongst the world’s tallest and oldest, some over 380 feet high or 2,000 years old.
Although born and brought up in California, I’m embarrassed to admit that until this trip I was a redwood forest virgin. Now, I’ve driven through Drive-Thru Trees, hugged the Dyerville Giant, visited the Eternal Tree House and been seduced by the lush scent and splendid silence of the Rockefeller Forest at sundown. My life is better for it and I promise yours will be too.
Photo by Geoffrey Davies
Do
Drive, cycle, hike or ride a horse through the 31 mile Avenue of the Giants and experience the power of ancient redwoods. You are in the largest old growth redwood forest on earth, surrounded by 17,000+ acres of coast redwoods and Douglas firs. These, and the lush undergrowth of redwood sorrel, ferns, orchids, trillium and fairy lanterns are just breathtakingly beautiful to see, smell and touch.
For thousands of years, the native Sinkyone people had lived here peacefully, fishing, hunting and eating only what they needed. In the 1850s, European settlers began to arrive, searching unsuccessfully for gold, then slashing their way through the lush forests to clear land for pastures and farms and reaping fortunes from logging. Just in time to save the area from total destruction the pioneering Save the Redwoods League and a few million dollars from the Rockefeller family came along, since when the forest has been under the care and protection of the California State Parks.
Stop by the forest’s Visitor Center for a copy of the world’s best free map with a very long name: 101 Things to Do in the World Famous Avenue of the Giants and the Lost Coast. With so much to see and do it’s worth giving yourself plenty of slow time to explore the area’s magical scenery and infinite temptations, from spectacular beaches, nature reserves and Victorian villages to craft breweries, cheese factories and marijuana farms. And still over 150 miles to reach California’s northern border!
More at avenueofthegiants.net.
Photo by Geoffrey Davies
Stay
The redwoods are not the place for 5-star luxury but you’ll find plenty of cheap and cheerful hotels and cabins along the route and over 250 campsites, from primitive trail camps to accessible, family and horse-friendly sites with reassuring “bear-resistant storage”. We longed to sleep under the ancient trees but skip the outdoor camping, so opted for a rustic cabin at Miranda Gardens Resort, smack in the middle of the forest.
Eat
If you’re not keen on campfire baked beans and toasted marshmallows, you’ll find the omelettes, pancakes, breakfast burritos and huevos rancheros at Miranda’s tiny Avenue Café a great alternative for breakfast. For a super satisfying lunch try the gourmet grilled cheese at Loleta’s. For dinner, I’d seriously consider the prawn mango tacos, beer-simmered roast beef, chicken lips and house brewed root beer and craft beers on tap at Eureka’s Lost Coast Brewery and Café.
Eat your heart out at avenuecafe.biz, lostcoast.com, and artisancheesefactory.com.
Photo Geoffrey Davies
Play
In a simple wooden building surrounded by giant burls, chunks and stumps of redwood drying in the sun, easily mistaken for part of a forest trail, we came upon Bernie Korbly’s extraordinary redwood workshop. The humble, good-natured and hugely talented Bernie has been running his business for over 40 years, creating wild and wonderful redwood chairs, chests, carvings, bowls, giant bears, gifts and burlwood slab tables.
Mischievously grinning beneath his hallmark baseball cap, Bernie invited us in to have a look around and hear his fascinating life story. Everything he makes is from 100% local redwood, sustainably sourced from salvaged rather than chopped down redwoods, all pieces sun-cured for years so they won’t crack. He’s always working on one project or another, with a four year waiting list of orders from customers around the world.
All about Bernie at korblywoodproducts.com.
