Back on the mainland after my overnight on Ocracoke, I drove south to Charleston still on the trail of Blackbeard.
One of Blackbeard’s most infamous exploits occurred in Charleston during May of 1718, mere months before the pirate met his fate off the coast of Ocracoke Island. As the story goes, several members of Blackbeard’s crew were ill and required medical supplies. Some accounts suggest that syphilis was the ailment and mercury was the medicine they sought. So Blackbeard used his flotilla to blockade the port of Charleston (or Charles Town as it was known then), plundering any ship that attempted to pass and even taking a few prisoners. Word was sent that if Blackbeard would get the supplies he requested his flotilla would sail on. After holding the prisoners at ransom for nearly a week, medicine eventually was provided to the pirates. Blackbeard is said to have honoured his end of the bargain, releasing his hostages and leaving immediately.
Charleston Pirate Tours
I learned about Blackbeard’s blockade and all sorts of local lore during a guided tour with captivating storyteller Eric Lavender of Charleston Pirate Tours. As informative and insightful as he was hilarious in his deadpan delivery, roaming around some the city’s most historic and beautiful streets with Eric in his full pirate garb was a great way to spend a morning – and an activity I’d recommend to anyone visiting Charleston.
The tour also allowed free entry to the Powder Magazine, a former gunpowder magazine built in 1713. Now a museum, it’s one of the oldest surviving public buildings in the state.
For more information and to book a tour, go to charlestonpiratetour.
For details about the Powder Magazine, check out powdermag.wixsite.com.
Rodney Scott’s BBQ
Charleston is renowned for its phenomenal dining scene. Indeed, the last time I hit town I was there for the food, specifically the BBQ. I loved the two joints I hit that last go-round but since then have regretted not getting to one highly regarded – and James Beard Award winning – eastern Carolina mainstay: Rodney Scott’s BBQ. So I was happy to realise my hotel was only a short walk from this celebrated restaurant specialising in whole hog BBQ smoked low and slow over a wood fire pit. And by happy I mean I ate there twice. The ribs were thick, tender and juicy. The chopped pork was some of the best I’ve had anywhere.
Rodney Scott’s BBQ is located at 1011 King Street, Charleston, South Carolina 29403. Find out more at rodneyscottsbbq.com.
Xiao Bao Biscuit
Another meal worth mentioning (and also just a stroll away from my hotel) is Xiao Bao Biscuit. Mixing East Asian comfort food with classic Southern cuisines for a menu of “Asian soul food” that’s “inspired by kick-ass grandmothers everywhere,” this trendy little eatery situated in what used to be a gas station. My massive bowl of mapo doufu with spicy Sichuan pork and tofu with broad beans, chilli oil, short grain rice and a ton of greens was as fiery as it was scrumptious.
Xiao Bao Biscuit is located at 224 Rutledge Avenue, Charleston, South Carolina 29403. Visit the restaurant online at xiaobaobiscuit.com.
Hyatt Place Charleston Historic District
During my few days in Charleston, I stayed in a spacious suite at the Hyatt Place in the Historic District. As alluded already it was situated ideally for my gourmand wanders, not to mention everything else I got up to while there.
By the time I reached Charleston I had been on the road a number of days. I found my suite a comfortable place to spread out as well as a pretty decent impromptu office for several hours of catching up on work, admin, emails and the like. Breakfast was included with my booking and proved a smart start to each day. I especially liked the made-to-order omelets. I enjoyed swimming in the indoor pool as well. Driving to/from the hotel was a breeze, whether heading to the beach, riding around town or hitting the Interstate.
Hyatt Place is located at 560 King Street, Charleston, South Carolina 29403. For details go to hyatt.com.
Keep a watch out for more posts to come in my Blackbeard’s Wake miniseries.
