Last stop of my ride through Blackbeard’s Wake was Savannah, Georgia.
Direct links between Blackbeard and Savannah are scarce, tenuous and not well documented. However, it’s as swashbuckling a city as ever you’ll come by. Plus, when initially planning my trip, I had hoped to shove off from to explore Georgia island that bears the pirate’s name.
Blackbeard Island
Off the Georgia coast near Savannah is Blackbeard Island. A National Wildlife Refuge, the uninhabited island is purportedly where the pirate hid his treasure. I was set to visit it during my few days in Savannah, but uncertainly about the path of Hurricane Florence (which at the time was days from landfall) prevented me from reaching it. The skies turned out to be blue with barely a light breeze while in town. In fact, I went swimming in my hotel’s pool to cool off on the day I had planned to go to Blackbeard Island. Oh well. Better safe than sorry, and now I’ve got an excellent excuse to return!
For more information about Blackbeard Island go to fws.gov/refuge/blackbeard_island.
Pirate’s House
One of Savannah’s most popular attractions is the Pirate’s House. The oldest standing building in Georgia, its construction was started in 1734. Originally a home for a gardener and then a tavern for seamen, it’s now is a restaurant serving low country cuisine with a bar mixing particularly potent cocktails.
Savannah is mentioned a number of times in the Robert Louis Stevenson novel Treasure Island and the Pirate’s House is believed to be the setting where the character Captain Flint died. History aside, the House is a great place for a hearty meal. I loved the fried green tomatoes (served stacked with smoked Gouda pimento cheese and chipotle aioli) and the award-winning fried chicken drenched in house made honey pecan sauce. A Savannah favourite libation, Chatham Artillery Punch, matched the food well – and with potency.
The Pirate’s House is located at 20 East Broad Street, Savannah, Georgia 31401. Find out more at thepirateshouse.com.
Olde Pink House
Another amazing meal in a historic setting was had at the Olde Pink House, an 18th century mansion cum upscale restaurant with a kitchen crafting low country cuisine with fine dining flair. Highlights from my feast were myriad, but most delicious upon recollection was the sautéed local shrimp with country ham gravy and Cheddar grits cake. A jalapeno margarita hit the spot as well. Service was exceptionally gracious and accommodating.
The Olde Pink House is located at 23 Abercorn Street, Savannah, Georgia 31401. Find it online at plantersinnsavannah.com/olde-pink-house-restaurant.
Mrs Wilkes Dining Room
Since I’m on a roll, allow me to share one more notably dining experience from the Savannah leg of my tour: my lunchtime feast at the famous Mrs Wilkes Dining Room. From 11am to 2pm every weekday with a no reservation policy and always a full house, this 75-year-old family-owned restaurant serves an array of classic Southern dishes to patrons seated at large communal tables. The fried chicken (yes, twice in two days) was phenomenal as were all the many fixings served alongside it. As much as I savoured the meaty mains and unlimited access to cornbread muffins and buttermilk biscuits, what I loved most were the dozen or so veggie sides done up in true Southern style.
Mrs Wilkes Dining Room is located at 107 West Jones Street, Savannah, Georgia 31401 (look for the queue). For details go to mrswilkes.com.
Ghost Coast Distillery
I didn’t just eat well in Savannah. I drank well too – and was especially impressed with the sips taken at Ghost Coast Distillery. Ghost Coast distils a broad range of super-premium spirits, including vodka, rum, whiskey, and a variety of liqueurs. If you visit the onsite bar, all the booze behind it will have been made in house. Ghost Coast conducts tours of the distillery so you can see for yourself where and how the magic happens. Distiller and “professional booze nerd” Ken Klehm was on hand when I dropped by. Dude knows his stuff! And I sincerely hope he keeps me posted on whatever he’s concocting in the lab with the noyaux (peach pits).
Opened less than two years ago, it’s still early days for the distillery. I’m keen to keep an eye on its progress – particularly what’s aging in casks and what I expect will turn out to be gorgeous rums and whiskeys in a few years.
Ghost Coast Distillery is located at 641 Indian Street, Savannah, Georgia 31401. Check it out online at ghostcoastdistillery.com.
Ships of the Sea Maritime Museum
Getting a taste of Savannah wasn’t only about gorging and guzzling. I also filled my mind with fascinating local history. A mid morning browse through the nine galleries of ship models, maritime paintings and artifacts at the Ships of the Sea Maritime Museum had me feeling wide-eyed and wistful for a seafaring adventure. The museum’s collection of models – all intricately detailed and at a 3/8” = 1” scale – presented informative eye candy and insight.
The Ships of the Sea Maritime Museum is set within the William Scarbrough House and Gardens at 41 Martin Luther King Jr Boulevard, Savannah, Georgia 31401. Find out more at shipsofthesea.org.
Owens-Thomas House & Slave Quarters
I poked my head in a couple of the numerous stately homes around town for guided tours. Most memorable was my visit to the Owens-Thomas House on the corner of Oglethorpe Square and operated by Telfair Museums. Impeccable architecture, sumptuous interiors and a glimpse into the affairs of affluent 19th century families appealed. More so though was the chance to go inside the property’s original slave quarters to imagine how others during the same era existed within that same context. The quarters are incredible well preserved. Even the handmade “haint blue” paint (a mix of indigo, lime and buttermilk) applied to the ground floor ceiling to keep the ghosts out remains largely visible.
The Owens-Thomas House is located at 124 Abercorn Street, Savannah, Georgia 31401. For information about visiting the house go to telfair.org/visit/owens-thomas.
Bonaventure Cemetery
Established in 1846 and popularised in more recent year by the novel and movie Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, 160-acre Bonaventure Cemetery is as Southern Gothic as it gets. Lined with live oaks drapped in Spanish moss, tombs and monuments here run the gamut from poignant to creepy to downright bizarre. Having drive through and stroll before moving on to my next destination seemed a moodily fitting way to end my time in Savannah.
Bonaventure Cemetery is located at 330 Bonaventure Road, Thunderbolt, Georgia, 31404. For details visit bonaventurehistorical.org.
Hilton Garden Inn Savannah Historic District
I stayed at the Hilton Garden Inn Savannah Historic District.
My room was comfy and quiet. The hotel was perfectly situated for exploring much of Savannah of foot. Nice pool too! Rates start from $121 per room per night, based on two sharing.
Hilton Garden Inn is located at 321 West Bay Street, Savannah, Georgia 31401. Find out more at hilton.com.
