Every great holiday must come to an end, and so too must Judith Schrut’s glorious gambol down the heel of Italy’s boot.
We literally jumped with joy (see above) to hear that our last few days in Italy would be spent cozying up to its beautiful east coast, our backs to the blazing sun and our full frontals to the azure Adriatic.
This meant the chance to see the stunning cliff-perched village of Polignano a Mare, famed for its ancient alleyways, hanging balconies and sea caves, outstanding gelato and superfresh fish paninis, and as the birthplace of Italian crooner Domenico “Mister Volare” Modugno. It meant time to explore the glorious beaches, nature reserves and rugged coastal paths of Salento, take a dip in the natural pools at La Grotta della Poesia (the Poetry Cave) and gasp at the crystalline waters surrounding the sea stacks of Sant’Andrea. It meant enjoying warm hospitality, luscious aperitivo and several helpings of Pasticciotto Leccese in Antonella’s kitchen in the medieval hamlet of Borgagne.
Antonio Caggiano views the sea stacks of Sant’Andrea, Adriatic coast, photo copyright Antonello Naddeo
And last but not least it meant spending one night in the dazzling baroque city of Lecce, “the Florence of the South,” and another in the port of Monopoli. With its characterful harbour and historic town centre, Monopoli is a dream come true if you like waking to the sounds of gulls and fishing boats instead of road traffic. It’s also an excellent place to sample outstanding, just-off-the-boat seafood. For such a small and unpretentious town, Monopoli punches way above its waistline, with more than 285 eateries listed on Trip Advisor.
By the time we reach Monopoli our original press gang of bloggers, vloggers, twitterati and the like has more than doubled. We are also ravenous, clearly in need of a four course banquet fit for King Neptune. The chef at Il Guazzetto does his best not to disappoint. Our enormous table is soon heaving with start-platters of octopus and branzino carpaccio, mussels in olive oil, garlic, parsley and marinated anchovies and salmon, followed by seafood calamarata pasta, assorted grilled fish and vegetables, fish soup and a tugload of Bianco Locorotondo and Negroamaro from Il Guazzetto’s excellent, easy priced wine list. (And no, we did not skip dessert).
It’s just as well we’re staying at nearby Hotel Indelli Palazzo, a boutique hotel overlooking Monopoli’s attractive town square, but there are plenty of other equally comfy options. If you’re on a tight budget or just keen to support a unique local project, check out the studios, apartments and other beautifully renovated properties run by the friendly folk of the Albergo Diffuso Cooperative.
Judith travelled to southern Italy as a guest of Puglia Cycle Tours and Puglia Promozione. More at www.pugliacycletours.com and agenziapugliapromozione.it. Stay tuned for an exclusive tasty treat to finish our Head for the Heel miniseries, Antonella’s classic recipe for Torta Pasticciotte Leccese.
