Judith Schrut spends a dreamy day in Terrasson-LaVilledieu, where even the public toilets are decorated with flowers.
The moment we arrive in Terrasson-LaVilledieu, crossing the Pont Vieux (literally, ancient bridge) footbridge in the early morning light, it’s clear this is no ordinary town but the French village of my dreams and imagination. I’m secretly pleased to hear that most visitors drive straight past this hidden gem.
A breathtaking hike up the flower-covered Malpas cliff path brings us to the old town, perched high above the Vézère River, and the medieval church of Saint-Sour. Built in the 14th century and recently renovated, its gorgeous stained glass windows are filled with legends of local saints and heroes. Saint-Sour looks splendid by day but is even more so on summer evenings when it’s the centrepiece of Terrasson’s nightly Son et Lumière, illuminating the church and surrounding buildings with 3D video projection mapping.
We are treated to a walking tour, led by enthusiastic local volunteers, of Terrasson’s network of mysterious underground tunnels, the cluzeax, its circuit of 10 historic water fountains and its maze of narrow streets filled with fragrant flower boxes and mini gardens. Even the town’s public toilets are covered in wisteria and climbing roses. Terrasson has recently been converting crumbling old spaces into art studios, encouraging jewellers, potters, photographers and loads of other artists to come and stay. It was wonderful to meet the amazing glassblower Tibo LaFleuriel and watch him work.
The town’s unique passion for artists, gardens and imaginative projects has been led from the front by its infatigable mayor, Pierre Delmon. His team is working on its latest project, a Cluedo style village treasure hunt for children. And simply unmissable for grownups is Terrasson’s extraordinary Les Jardins de l’Imaginaire (Gardens of the Imagination). Designed by French-American landscape architect Kathryn Gustafson after winning a prestigious international competition, Les Jardins is an enchanting garden for all the senses, re-telling history, myths and legends through 6 hectares and 13 garden ‘rooms’ including water gardens, a theatre of greenery, a sacred wood and a rainbow bowl.
Judith travelled to Dordogne as a guest of Dordogne Valley Travel and Brive Dordogne Valley Airport. Final post in our Delights of the Dordogne miniseries coming soon!
Shopping for zone 5 perennials?
