Eastern Mediterranean flavours flourish at the newly launched CERU in Queensway.
Same great taste, same swift service, same comfy and stylish digs with a mini-vacation vibe – the new CERU restaurant opened steps away from Queensway Station upholds a reputation built on simple, flavour-forward food inspired by the Levant.
When I received an emailed invitation from the owners to pay a visit to their latest restaurant for review, I had two thoughts. The first was ‘Phew! Another independent restaurant group serving quality food in London has managed to survive the Brexit/Covid crush!’ The second was ‘Hell yeah! I loved my last CERU experience and would definitely be keen to have another go at the menu.’
That ‘go’ I had at the menu proved to be mostly a repeat of prior meals enjoyed at the original CERU in South Kensington and its now closed Soho venue. It turned out to be a pretty smart strategy.
The super tender lamb shoulder slow roasted for five hours in a secret blend of 12 shawarma spices with pomegranate sauce, fresh mint and pistachio (£14) still wowed as I so fondly remembered. Similarly savoury was the roasted leg of rabbit with spicy cannellini beans and a citrus dressing (£14). On a more plant-based note, a salad of blood orange, celeriac and radicchio with shallots, toasted almonds, pomegranate and a citrus dressing (£7)presented presented an irresistible melange of flavours and textures. Another dish I craved to taste again – and that more than lived up to its memory – was the Flavours of Baklava Ice Cream with cardamom ice cream, nut brittle and burnt honey caramel (£7.50).
As for the drinks, the visit quenched my thirst with excellence! The meal commenced with a complimentary shot of the house made lemonade of the day. On the day of my visit, the ade was stirred to pert perfection with sea salt and honey for an equally refreshing, palate cleansing and appetising few sips. Following that, a Figaro cocktail featuring fig liquor, Triple Sec, lime, Angostura, fresh mint, and egg white (£9.50) delighted even further. A bottle of aromatic and juicy Monemvasia Red (Monemvasia Winery, Greece, £40) paired ideally with lamb and the rabbit but exceptionally well with salads too.
Other than the food, I found the setting pleasant – stylish with a nod to Eastern Mediterranean decor without being too kitsch. Though maybe just kitsch enough was the look of the restrooms. Passing through the huge wooden doors leading to the toilets, I felt as though I had been transported to a courtyard in Fez … or maybe a hamam in Istanbul. The spacious, evocatively lit bathroom area is probably best seen for yourself. So I’ll end my review here with a word of gratitude for the efficient and friendly service during my meal.
CERU Queensway is located at 11 Queensway, W2 4QJ. Find out more at cerurestaurants.com.
