Dalston restaurant Angelina recently played host to a one-off kaiseki (tasting menu) dinner organised by the Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano Reggiano. The 12-course feast paired with six wines highlighted the versatility of one of the world’s most beloved cheeses as well as the flavour-focused aptitude of the kitchen team at this Italian-Japanese fusion restaurant.
When the invitation for this event came my way, I happily RSVPed. Not my first Parmesan tasting session, I’ve had the great fortune of attending a number of similar happenings over the years in London (as well as in Parma and the region of Emilia Romagna). Every time I’ve left at least to little more amazed by how such a simple product can express such complex flavour and add such significant depth to so many different dishes. Plus, I’d heard good things about Angelina. So, on the evening of the dinner, I arrived with high hopes and a hearty appetite.
Expectations were more than exceeded and my appetite was satisfied wholly.
Umami was the name of the game for this special meal providing the opportunity to demonstrate what makes both Italian and Japanese cuisines so delicious and why Parmigiano Reggiano is such a staple ingredient in households across the world and all sorts of commercial kitchens.
Best moments of the menu include the following dishes:
– Chawanmushi (a sweet and savoury egg custard) with 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano, hazelnuts and truffle;
– Otoro (fatty tuna) with lardo, moromi miso and 36-month Parmigiano Reggiano; and
– Caramella (‘candy-shaped’ stuffed pasta) with truffle, furikake, and a 96-month Parmigiano Reggiano – yes an eight year old cheese!
Those are but three of 12 dishes. To be sure my palate was pleased and intrigued by all courses. That caramelle dish really stood out though. I got to have a taste of the 96-month old Parmesan on its own too – out of this world with a complex and meaty profile. Served with the caramelle was a glass of 2016 Barolo La Foil (Vini Curto, Nebbiolo, Piedmont). Mouthwatering and tannic with notes of leather and rose, it amplified the flavours of this unique dish while proving a more than suitable quaff to sip on its own.
Impressed to a degree not met by a restaurant in far too long, I very much intend to visit Angelina again and highly recommend you consider booking a table there for your next dining occasion. Service was on point, the wines were phenomenal and a glance at the regular tasting menus suggested extremely good value for high calibre food.
Angelina is located at 56 Dalston Lane, E8 3AH. Find out more at angelina.london.
For more about Parmigiana Reggiano visit parmigianoreggiano.com.
