Back on the track of the Lion Man …
From Basel, the next stop on the tour was the historic spa town of Baden-Baden, Germany.
Generally speaking, travelling from Basel to Baden-Baden should have been a piece of cake (black forest gateau if you don’t mind please). However, the ticketed date coincided with a day of national rail strikes, and the Basel to Baden-Baden service was cancelled. Long story short, and luckily enough, my Airbnb host had ample free time and enough entrepreneurial spirit to offer to drive for what I thought was a very reasonable price (especially with such little notice and me with so few affordable options). The rail journey would have taken around an hour and a half; door-to-door service with the Airbnb host was about two hours. I travelled by train a few times after that with no industrial action or any other issues affecting my trip.
Once in Baden-Baden, it was time to relax. And this lovely little city was an ideal setting for just that. Since the days of the Roman Empire folks have been enjoying the geothermal wonders of Baden-Baden. Indeed its name actually translates from German to English as “Baths Baths”.
So, when in Rome …
Friedrichsbad and Caracalla Spa
Römerplatz 1, 76530
During my stay, I visited Baden-Baden’s two famous spas: Friedrichsbad and Caracalla Spa. Set within a lavish Neo-renaissance building from the 1870s, Friedrichsbad is the grande dame of Belle Epoque spas and offers a traditional (nude bathing only) service featuring more than a dozen stations for warming up, cooling down and soaking in natural mineral waters. Caracalla is more modern (and you can keep your bathing suit on). I loved but preferred Caracalla more, especially the heated outdoor swimming pool and hot tubs.
Details about both spas can be found at carasana.de.
Kaffeesack
Hirschstraße 6/D, 76530
Independent roastery and brew bar on a quiet street
I liked the brew I was served so much I brought back a few bags of beans as souvenirs. A light lunch was delicious here too.
Find out more at kaffeesack.de.
Weinhelden
Lange Straße 87, 76530
Keep this wonderful independent wine shop in mind for quaffs required during your visit to Baden-Baden. I was grateful for and impressed by the personable attention and excellent advice received when shopping for some local wines here.
Online at weinhelden.de.
Merkur Mountain
Merkuriusberg 2, 76530 (address for the funicular’s lower station)
A trip up Merkur Mountain (via funicular) provided expansive views of Baden-Baden and the surrounding countryside as well as the chance to admire paragliders in flight.
Details: stadtwerke-baden-baden.de/de/mobilitaet-freizeit/merkurbahn.
Hotel am Markt
Marktplatz 18, 76530
A comfortable and pleasant stay was had at the conveniently situated Hotel am Market. In addition to being only a short stroll from the spas, I especially loved the included breakfast featuring a delectable array of homemade treats.
Have a look at the hotel’s website: hotel-am-markt-baden.de.
Heidelberg
As I hoped when planning the trip, Baden-Baden turned out to be a great base for day trips to nearby destinations such as Heidelberg. However, a day was not enough. I am keen to visit again and wouldn’t mind a trip back to Baden-Baden or maintaining it as a base for other day trips.
More to come, including a glimpse of the reason for this journey: the Lion Man of Hohlenstein-Stadel.
