Welcome back to Tracking the Lion Man, a series of posts about my trip to Switzerland and Germany en route to the city of Ulm to view the Löwenmensch (Lion Man) of Hohlenstein-Stadel – a prehistoric sculpture carved out of mammoth tusk.
As mentioned in my introduction to this series, logistics, budget, and a bit of preference gave the Swiss city of Basel an edge when deciding where to commence my trip.
Over the past decade, I’ve visited Basel a few times. Having only ever gone there for work, without deciding venture there independent of obligation, I learned to love it without having developed a strong impression of it beforehand. So I was happy to go back there again. This time with no agenda other than for a couple of days of fun. Similarly, I was glad to be able to show Basel to my partner travelling with me.
Back in 2014, writing about my first visit to Basel, I said that “for a compact destination that’s big on culture, I reckon Basel should be one of your top choices. I was really impressed with just about everything saw and experienced there and would relish any chance to go again.” I’ll stand by that statement nine years later after multiple returns.
Here are a few highlights from my recent time there.
River Ferries
With a broad stretch of the Rhine River running through the heart of the city, being able to cross from one side to the other has played a key role in Basel’s success. It’s easy enough to do on foot via the 800 year-old Mittlere Brucke, the oldest existing bridge that spans the Rhine. Similarly, a steady stream of busses and trams cross the river as well. However, the most fun, scenic and wonderfully anachronistic way to do so is by river ferry.
The ferries are attached to long wire cables running from one side of the Rhine to the other and are driven only by river current. Basel has four of these ferries, connecting parts of the city where tourists are likely to want to visit. I took Münster Ferry “LEU” during my stay. Just a short stroll from the Airbnb I booked, it offered easy access to – and picturesque views of – Basel Minster nearby sites.
It’s worth pointing out that when you book accommodation in Basel, you receive a free BaselCard that gives you unlimited rides on all public transport in town. The card also offers significant discounts to most attractions and museums around Basel as well as discounts in some shops. It comes in handy and provides a sense of economic reprieve in a city and country that are notoriously expensive. But keep in mind that the BaselCard is not accepted on the ferries. A oneway crossing costs about 2CHf, not quite £2 – good value for this series that not only connects you to both sides of town but to the history of this vibrant city.
More on the ferries at basel.com/en/activities-excursions/ferries
Bäckerei KULT
Riehentorstrasse 18, 4058
Basel has an impressive number of quality bakeries and a good share of decent cafes. Among them is Bäckerei KULT. Small and homey, KULT is set within the site of Basel’s oldest bakery () but with a contemporary view on what to bake. The mortadella bagel I had for my breakfast during my only full day in Basel was one of the tastiest (not to mention satisfying and affordable!) meals I had during the entire trip.
Details at baeckereikult.ch.
Fondation Beyeler
Baselstrasse 101, 4125
On the rural edge of Basel is Fondation Beyeler, home to one of the most impressive collections of modern and contemporary art in Europe, if not the world. I was keen to return to this museum for another look at important works from the likes of Van Gogh, Picasso, Warhol, Bacon and Monet. While there, I got to take in the Wayne Thiebaud retrospective exhibition featuring 65 pieces from across the American painter’s career, as well as Doris Salcedo’s Palimpsest installation, a poignant work addressing the global migration crisis.
Info at fondationbeyeler.ch.
Vitra Design Museum
Charles-Eames-Straße 2, 79576 Weil am Rhein, Germany
Actually located just outside Basel in the German city of Weil am Rhein, the Vitra Design Museum is a must-see destination for anyone interested in design. Furniture company Vitra is responsible for manufacturing some of the world’s most celebrated and significant pieces of furniture and household items, including works by Ray and Charles Eames, Jean Prouvé, George Nelson, Isamu Noguchi, and Verner Panton. Lots of examples from those folks and more are on view across the museum’s campus where buildings designed by notable architects such as Frank Gehry and Zaha Hadid are to be admired and explored.
Online at design-museum.de.
More!
This was not my first time in Basel nor do I expect it to have been my last.There’s plenty more great food and drink, art, culture and fun to be experienced, some of which you can read about in previously published posts on this blog. Basel.com is an excellent resource as well.
Keep an eye out for the next instalment of my Lion Man series. Thanks!
