tikichris

A lot has changed in London since Sophie’s Steakhouse opened a decade ago. Finding a more than decent chunk of cow is almost too easy these days, while enjoying a gorgeous cut of meat from an ethically raised animal who’s provenience is presented to diners with impeccable detail isn’t all that uncommon either.

I’ve changed too. I’m not so much concerned anymore about reviewing anywhere and everywhere I’ve been, and I’m not too terribly bothered to spend time to gripe online about some less than ideal dining experience. With respect to writing reviews, I’ve recently come up with a pretty simple policy to which I try to adhere. Would I recommend the place to a good friend? If yes, then publish. If no, figure out something else to write about. Of course, if somebody thoroughly pisses me off or disappoints to an egregious extent, I reserve the right to pounce.

So … Sophie’s Steakhouse on Fulham Road (there’s a newer one at Covent Garden too). Nice place. I had a lunchtime catchup with a friend there a couple of weeks ago. And I’ve been playing mental ping pong deciding whether I should write a review of Sophie’s since. For the price and what’s on other, there are plenty of comparable alternatives as well as a growing handful of venues offering a superior steak at roughly the same cost.

Needless to say, I wasn’t as gleeful about this steakhouse as Jay Rayner seemed to be back in 2002. Indeed, I wonder if he would be as gaga if he were to review Sophie’s today? All steaks at Sophie’s are British beef, naturally raised (whatever that means in this or any case) and dry aged for 28 days. That’s good. But our lovely server and the accommodating manager couldn’t tell us anything about breed or where they’d been raised. It might have been Scotland, or maybe Northern Ireland. That’s not up to 2013 steak standards for this town.

Don’t get me wrong. I was happy to chow on my 24oz côte de boeuf (£38.50), and I really liked my spinach, bacon and blue cheese salad (£7.25). My dining companion loved his starter course of field mushrooms with rocket and goat’s cheese on toasted brioche (£7.50) and had no complaints about his sirloin (£26.95). But we both agreed we’ had better recently for about the same price or cheaper.

One aspect to my lunch at Sophie’s still stands out as exceptional: the house red, Sophie’s Reserve Rouge 2011, IGP d’Oc. It’ a great wine, and at £4.75 for a 175ml glass and £16.95 for a bottle it’s great value too. A blend of Syrah and Grenache created by the restaurant’s “own team”, I liked it from the first sip and thought is was an especially smart and easy drinker to go with red meat. Good ‘n’ juicy with a medium body, it’d be a nice one to drink on its own if slipping into Sophie’s for an evening at the comfortable (and I hear ridiculously popular) bar.

My experience with asking for house wines at restaurants in this town has been hit or miss (heavy on the miss). Ordering what the “house” recommends is a speedy yet discerning way to figure out if a restaurant is worth returning to. In the case of Sophie’s, I ain’t rushing out the door, but I’d go again. I have to say, though, I was really impressed with my glass (oh, make that two) of Sophie’s Reserve. So much so, it’s easily the most remarkable wine I’ve had this month and worth adding to my WOTM list of commendable quaffs.

If you live or work near Sophie’s, definitely keep it in mind. And when you pay your visit, be sure to ask for the house red.

Sophie’s Steakhouse is located at 311-313 Fulham Road, SW10 9QH. There’s another location at 29-31 Wellington Street, WC2E 7DB which I haven’t been to but reckon offers a similar dining experience plus the option of pre and post show theatre menus. Check out sophiessteakhouse.co.uk for more information.