Maddie Salters enjoys the festive winter makeover at Brasserie Blanc.
Christmas has arrived early at Brasserie Blanc, where a menu of festive game courses threatens to overturn turkey as the holiday pièce de résistance – much to my own pheasant surprise!
I was invited by to try out their new, festive winter makeover menu and participate in a masterclass, hosted by their executive chef, Clive Fretwell, and master butcher, Aubrey Allen, ahead of a daunting five-course dinner.
The space at Brasserie Blanc, newly refurbished, was instantly inviting. Rosewood hues, candlelight, and floral place settings gave the first floor private dining area the feel of a English country inn, straight out of a Dickens’ novel– and for December, that novel may well be ‘A Christmas Carol’. Rustic down to the ceramic tubs of fluer de sel and the hand-embroidered starchy napkins, the homey antique environment is enlivened by what the manager calls their “eccentric” a la carte menu. Rare to the high street, the Brasserie is no stranger to delicacies like roast rabbit, mallard with blackberries, and pig cheeks. The risk-taking pays off– they generally sell out, I was told.
After the masterclass, I understood why that might be. Attention to quality along the supply line means that the restaurant is intimately involved in how the game it serves is raised and hunted. Suppliers of game to Brasserie Blanc make sure that animals are all hand-reared in the English countryside, and fed only whole grain corn and maize in the wild. This makes for healthier game with a cleaner palette. They are gathered in peak season: partridges in September, pheasant in October. Once the game is brought in, the executive chef puts his thirteen years of fine dining experience to the test, almost literally, experimenting and pushing limits on recipes.
The result? When I am served my “bag pheasant” (roasted in a bag of house spices and butter on very low heat across three hours to keep it tender, moist, and succulent), I’m convinced it’s the new Christmas must-eat. Savoury and melt-off-the-bone, it was served alongside a thick, pungent gravy with tart black currents that burst with flavour, providing a sweet counterpoint to the meat, giving the dish its holiday flare. The pureed pumpkin also added to that wintery feel, giving the surprisingly light meal some depth. (The roast sat atop a friend latke, at that– to give it some Hanukkah flare.)
The pheasant was one of five game courses I was invited to taste on my night out. The highlight of many of the game dishes for me was in how they were accessorised. A very fresh Game Terrine came with smoky port jelly and braised quince that I particularly enjoyed, served with hazelnuts for crunch. The Pigeon Salad came with a winter slaw of walnuts, apples, balsamic, and white grapes that gave the minty meat a soft and subtle counterpoint. The “Eighteen Hour” Venison Casserole was pie-like, served in a delicious, deep sauce along with roasted leek and carrot, giving it a hearty English feel.
The dessert, my second favourite course of the night after the pheasant, was certainly not to be outdone. Having a massive sweet tooth, I more than appreciated the fact that it served three ways, in bite-sized tasters that didn’t leave me feeling (too) stuffed: laval cake with decadent pistachio pudding, mousse cake topped in a nut crumble, and a pistachio madeline with cool chocolate ice cream.
My visit to Brasserie Blanc left me with plenty of inspiration for alternative Christmas recipes. Currants and braised fruit alongside delicate birds rubbed down in spices? Yum! The talent of the Brasserie Blanc team especially shown through in their pairings and accoutrement, where everything from fresh vegetables to excellent wine choices enhanced the menu of local game. The fact that it’s served up in a cozy, casual space only helps along the good cheer.
Brasserie Blanc is located a 8 Charlotte Street, W1T 2LS with five other outlets in London and several throughout the UK. Find out more at brasserieblanc.com.
