No, I didn’t just lounge around at a couple of scenically situated hotels while in the Douro (although, that would be a terrifically recuperative way to spend one’s time). When I wasn’t enjoying my stay in the luxury laps of Quinta do Vallado and Quinta Nova, I was bopping all over the rest of the valley trying to visit as many different vineyards as possible – and loving every minute of it. Here are a few brief notes about the rest of the Douro Valley quintas I visited, including Quinta do Crasto, Quinta da Pacheca, Quinta do Panascal and Quinta do Seixo.
Quinta do Crasto
Since returning from Portugal, I’ve had dinner out with some friends – at the very yummy Eat17 in Walthamstow, where I was pleased to see this small winery’s red and porto on the drinks menu. I was even more pleased when my dining companions trusted my judgement and went with the red (and loved it).
This rather remote quinta isn’t accommodating overnight guests yet. But with an infinity pool + an epic view across the valley and a quaint old house for maximum rustic relaxing, when they do (and word is it will be soon) Crasto definitely will be worth keeping in mind. More: quintadocrasto.pt
Quinta da Pacheca
This “wine house hotel” on the outskirts of the villages of Lamego and Peso de Regua was the first quinta I visited in the Douro. Lunch here was a dream; I had an amazing serving of octopus, and I frickin’ loved their 30 Year Old Tawny. I didn’t spend the night here but got a great tour of the place. From the tree lined drive, to the rather verdant dining room and its great selection of comfortable and well furnished rooms, this is a very pretty winery worth keeping in mind for when you visit the area. Details: wonderfulland.com/pacheca
Quinta do Panascal
Back in 1992, Panascal become the first winery in the Douro to open its doors to the general public and offer overnight accommodation. Built snug along steep slopes slanting down to the babbling Tavora River (and offering a range of facilities and activities for guests), it’s a gorgeous place to stay. Food’s extra nice too. Orange marinated kid lamb was a tender, juicy treat as was an egg custardy crème brûlée.
The vineyards here are one in a trio of vineyards supplying Fonseca.I’ve been trying to be as even handed as possible writing about the wines I tried on this trip. But, if I had to pick one favourite, without a doubt it would be the Fonseca’s Guimaraens Vintage Port – an supple yet pronounced expression of fig and tamarind that stopped me in my tracks upon first tasting. Find out more: fonseca.pt/en/visitors-centre
Quinta do Seixo
The Quinta do Seixo Wine Centre is fortified wine heavyweight Sandeman’s showcase vineyard in the Douro Valley, and with good reason. Perched atop a hill with commanding views, this a fabulous place to learn about and drink some of the world’s most popular ports (I especially liked the LBV Port 2008). Beyond the amazing vistas and excellent wines the quinta features a tasting room that’s as dramatically set as it is plush; a gift shop that’s well stocked; and the guided tour of the high tech facilities and ancient cellar that’s thorough and engaging. More: sandeman.com/visitus/douro/en
Be sure to check back soon for future instalments of my Portugal Please miniseries.
Pingback: Portugal Please: Até Logo