The Koster Islands are situated off Sweden’s western mainland just south of Norway. It’s a beautiful part of the world – a rugged and ‘out there’ archipelago where wilderness and cultivation blend in such a way as to suggest that humans and nature actually can get along. Summer’s the main time folks visit this tranquil area, but I was there at the onset of autumn for the start of the lobster season. Lured by the prospect of catching (and eating!) the regionally renowned “black gold of the sea” lobsters for myself from one of the cleanest of nutritionally rich fjords in Scandinavia, I tagged along on a Lobster Safari “activity and dining experience” offered by the lovely little Hotel Koster on the island of Sydkoster.
Hotel Koster’s Lobster Safari gives its guests the chance to have a go at the centuries old tradition of lobster trapping. Check it out:
… Be part of the unique experience at sea when the traps are emptied and the lobster catch is brought in … Together with our licensed skipper Johan in our boat Pavona (for larger parties we use many of the other local fishermen as our partners) the Lobster Safari takes about three hours to complete and is an option that everyone that visits Koster can really feel the local spirit when taking part. Feel the saltiness from the sea, as the waves of autumn light reflex and shape the Bohuslän rocks and cliffs stepping up from the sea.
Yep, I did this early morning seafaring safari and savoured every second of it. I baited and cast some traps into the sea and pulled up a few traps too (some even containing the “black gold” I’d hoped to catch). It was splendid being in a boat at dawn in such a pretty place: breathing the fresh air, feeling a crisp breeze kiss my cheeks, taking photos of the sunrise and the stunning scenery.
Once back on land, the lobsters caught were soon in the pot and a short boil later presented to the table for a sumptuous and well earned feast. My Koster catch was definitely the freshest lobster I’d ever eaten – and as delicious as any I can recollect tasting.
Of course, if you just want to enjoy lobster but leave all the dirty work to the professionals, the hotel has a special five course lobster menu available throughout the season (which stretches through winter into early spring). Meals are served in a candlelit dining room with huge wood fireplace. During my visit, the candles were lit and the fire roaring at every meal – even for my super early breakfast before heading out to the boat. All the food coming out of the hotel’s kitchen was yummy. Same could be said of the drinks as well. Hotel Koster impressed my palate with a more than decent wine list, a smartly stocked bar and an excellent assortment of craft beers. I especially loved my bottle of Czech style Pilsner, Eskilstuna Stolt Lager.
Lobster or not, I found the hotel to be a fine place to spend a few days. My seaside suite was a bit on the utilitarian side but was impeccably clean and very spacious with a full kitchen, comfy bed, and great shower. If the look of my room was so-so, the picturesque view of the sea from its windows was not. No complaints – I’d be pleased to rest my head there again. For even more awesome sea views to take in, the hotel’s outdoor hot tub perched on a small cliff and just a few short steps from my room was the perfect setting for a soothing post safari dip.
Hotel Koster is located about a two minute walk from Ekenäs harbour where the ferry lands (to get to Sydkoster island you’ll need to come by ferry or arrange some other boat to take you). The scenic ferry ride takes about 50 minutes from the mainland town of Strömstad … which is about a two hours drive from Göteborg Landvetter Airport … which is a mere hour and a half flight from London. All in all, this made for a very beautiful journey. I was fine spending the travel time getting but would have relished the chance to stay longer, check out Gothenburg and some other spots along the route. Next time!
Find out more about Hotel Koster at hotelkoster.se.
Special thanks to the West Sweden Tourist Board for all the info and help with my fun itinerary!
Cheers to Stefan von Bothmer of Sydkoster’s gorgeous Kosters Trädgårdar for the island cycling tour and crash course in Koster history!
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