Ditching my hired car for a couple of nights, the next stop on my itinerary was Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp, accessible by 45-minute bush flight over an expanse of desert where hardly a bush might be seen. As formidably named as it was, the Skeleton Coast was a serene and gentle place to discover – at least while in the shade and in the company of my competent guides.
The camp was a khaki canvas paradise of haute design fixed lightly to one of the world’s most desolate and pristine wilderness areas. Open just over a year, this fully solar powered joint venture between Wilderness Safaris and the neighbouring Conservancies of Anabeb, Torra and Sesfontein, was the very model for cutting edge – and sustainable – luxury.
Soon settled in after arriving from Doro Nawas with a safety briefing (don’t be stupid especially in the dark of the night) and tour of facilities behind me, I was told that I had arrived on an off day and that drink stocks were low as deliveries to this remote outpost could take days. So the bar was only serving doubles. Pity that. Apparently though, staff had stocked up on an abundance of humour.
However much alcohol was available (and if you didn’t catch the joke, there was indeed plenty), if one were ever to seek a place for sobering up, the camp would be a fine place for such an endeavour. It was intoxicating enough simply to be at this tiny well kempt speck of life placed amid – yet never quite exposed to – the elements in their extreme.
The highlights and memories from this leg of my trip were many. Guides Alpha and Tsjemba were ace at tracking down and identifying wildlife – including elephants, giraffes, and even weeks old lion cubs. Off-roading up, down and across giant sand dunes (as well as scooting down one on my tuckus) was an absolute blast. Checking out shipwrecks and colonies of seals at Mowe Bay had me connecting with the wonder-seeking little boy I once was (and still kinda am).
I also loved my down time here, lounging on the covered deck of my diminutively titled “tent” (accommodation was a lavish spread – I didn’t want to leave!), writing notes about the trip, going through my photos, daydreaming as I hadn’t in ages.
Keep an eye out for more posts about my visit to Namibia. For details about this beautiful country go to namibiatourism.com.na.
