My first full day of my Cane to Cocktail tour of Jamaica started with a morning on the beach and a fish and festival feast at Screechies in Hellshire.
A big shack on a small crescent beach, my morning at Screechies lived up to my years of daydreaming about how a lazy day in Jamaica might play out. There was a well stocked bar with a ginormous sound system just a few sandy steps from a gently lapping tide. Fishing boats lined the beach clustered with shelters and shacks made vibrant with hand painted murals depicting island life and celebrating iconic Jamaicans. Friendly folks went about their own business but were happy to cast a cheery smile and say hello.
The sun blazed. But the water was just right for swimming. Sitting in the shade of the shack with an ice cold Red Stripe in hand (don’t worry rum soon followed) with a cool breeze blowing my way, I felt as chilled out and comfortable as I ever could remember being. No attitude, no pomp, and nothing exclusive about the experience save for its paradisiac location removed from so much of the rest of the world.
I’d love to say I was in-the-know about Screechies, as it’s definitely a local-knowledge sort of place – with an almost folkloric atmosphere hanging in the sweet scented air. However, it was the team at Appleton who lead us (me and the small band of international press with whom I travelled) to this laidback beachside slice of heaven, thus commencing an awesome insiders’ presentation of the best of Jamaica to pair perfectly with their rums.
And speaking of perfect pairings, we were there not only for the beach and booze (thought that was a large part of it), but for Screechie’s famous fish and festival. The fish part of the equation was fresh caught snapper cooked escabeche style and served straight from the grill with plenty of scotch bonnet vinegar sauce on the side. The festival (fried cornmeal fritters) were ideal for sopping up all that fiery sauce and last bits of fish.
For a tasty and relaxed day at the beach within reach of Kingston, I doubt you’ll find somewhere as suitable as Screechies. To get there head to Hellshire Beach in Portmore just west of Kingston. Once there, if you don’t come upon it immediately, somebody should be able to guide you in the right direction.
I can’t find any sort of link with contact details or even an address for Screechies.
But if you dig around online you should be able to find all sorts of mentions and photos as testament to how great the place is and how much Screechies and its ‘chef patron’ namesake are adored. Here are a couple:
jamaicaobserver.com/magazines/food/Mooking-s-catch-of-the-day_8875670
jamaicaobserver.com/lifestyle/My-Kingston—Chef-Judson-Todd-Allen_17752423
