Similar in feel to other Spanish cities renowned for their tapas such as San Sebastian and Madrid, Santiago de Compostela has its own classic collection of old school bars and taverns serving small plates of regional dishes.
Unlike the aforementioned destinations though, Santiago’s rustic little cubbyholes for casual drinks and local cuisine tend to be a lot less touristy (save during Semana Santa when pilgrims and sightseeing descend upon the city en mass).
I would have loved a Santiago bar crawl while in Santiago. But alas I was in Galicia for a graze across the region not a crawl around town. Schedule and funds allowed only for one bar session. I was fortunate my research and instincts led me to O Gato Negro.
Arriving down the winding little cobbled alleyway, O Gato Negro’s window shone like a dim beacon, bright enough to highlight a hanging wooden signboard, a rather lengthy looking menu and an array of fresh seafood on display along the sill. Inside the tiny tavern appeared packed – low key and mellowed out, but absolutely packed – somewhat surprising for late on a Wednesday night.
On my own for the evening, I wedged in at the bar (perdóname, perdóname). As far as I could tell I was the only out-of-towner there but no one seemed perturbed by my presence, and the folks behind the bar came across as appreciative for my patronage though not egregious about it.
Surveying the scene and perusing the menu, I ordered a thick slice of empanada de pulpo (octopus pie) and a bowl of caldo gallego, a hearty soup of white beans, bitter greens, potatoes and cabbage, washing both down with a bowl (yes a bowl) of Albariño served from a jug.
The meal was probably my favourite night out during my trip and one of the best bar experiences I’ve had this year. I enjoyed the chance to people watch discretely while idling at the bar and savouring every robust bite of the deeply flavoursome food presented promptly and unceremonious before me.
O Gato Negro is located at Rúa da Raíña, 15702. Find out more at facebook.com/tabernaogatonegro.
Stay tuned for more posts about my Graze Across Galicia.
