Next up on Judith Schrut‘s Pugliese forage is a visit to Polignano a Mare – and just in time for a lovely lunch!
Following a generous Italian breakfast, multiple espressos and a morning exploring the scenic seaside caves, coves and clifftops of Polignano a Mare, one of Puglia’s most beautiful villages, it was time for another hearty maritime lunch.
It so happens that Polignano has many seafood restaurants, and choosing where to dine can be really difficult. We decided to follow the locals. And they were flocking to Pescaria.
Although I’ve seen Pescaria described as the Italian version of fast food, I saw absolutely nothing to show it had much in common with McDonald’s.
The owner’s credo is “We love fish and we like to serve it in a simple tasty and fresh way.” And what he says is what you get. That means harbour-fresh seafood, crudo e frito– raw or fried– fresh and individually prepared and looking almost too beautiful to eat. It means platters of hairy mussels, Sardinian oysters and plump, red shrimp. Or gourmet panini like tuna tartare, burrata, tomato and pesto; fried octopus with ricotta, anchovy and chicory; and swordfish burger with caramelized onion, caciocavallo cheese and potato rosti. Panini are piled smartly into fat round buns, Pescaria’s version of tartaruga, a traditional Italian bread with a crunchy top crust shaped like a turtle’s back.
From the counter display my dining companions and I selected and savoured a dazzling array of fish carpaccio and assorted open sandwiches on bagel-shaped crostini. I followed this with a sesame crusted salmon tataki on a bed of creamy cacioricotta cheese and surrounded by crunchy artichokes and sugar sweet cherry tomatoes. My friend from rural Lincolnshire was smacking his lips and raving about his gamberoni e patate fritte, the Apulian version of fish and chips. But for sheer will power, he proclaimed, he could happily eat another portion, right now.
If there is anything negative to say about Pescaria, it’s that its small size combined with incredible food means it is always full. Although there’s a sister Pescaria in Milan, I understand she’s pretty busy too. There’s rumour of a branch coming to the UK soon. Mmmm … can’t wait!
Pescaria, Piazza Aldo Moro, 6/8, 70044 Polignano A Mare: pescaria.it.
Stay tuned for more Eat Puglia posts to come.
