spends the final part of her Northern California holiday chasing butterflies, sampling chowder and admiring marine life on the glorious Monterey Peninsula.
This is a destination you’ll want to return to again and again.
Photo Geoffrey Davies
Do
Ideally you’ll want more than a day to fully appreciate the astounding natural beauty, fab food and waterside joys of sun-drenched Monterey Bay. But if you find yourself short on time, try my ‘Bay in a Day’.
Start the day with a dark roast pour-over, lavender latte or double cappuccino and today’s papers on the comfy sofas at Bookworks Coffeehouse followed by brunch at Red House Cafe, located in the laidback– and my personal favourite– Bay town of Pacific Grove. Along with a warm, villagey welcome you’ll get from owners Christopher D’Amelio, Laura Medina-D’Amelio and their team, Red House gets top marks for traditional American brunch choices. These include cinnamon swirl French toast, buttermilk pancakes, waffles (with real maple syrup, always a good sign) as well as omelettes, frittatas, several variations of Eggs Benedict and a whole lot more, all served on Red House’s old fashioned porch or in its cozy dining room.
You may have come for brunch but I assure you the lunches and dinners here are equally yum. Be sure to save some room for the homemade cheesecake and fruit pies to die for.
Time to work off that pie and cheesecake, so head down to nearby Lovers Point to rent a bike or group pedal-powered, fringe-topped surrey. Now you’re ready for an invigorating wheely tour round Pacific Grove’s fabulous coastline, with plenty of photo opps with sea otters, harbour seals, herons and other marine life sunning on the rocks or bobbing in the sea. Stop by PG’s legendary Monarch Butterfly Sanctuary, Port Pinos Lighthouse and vintage back streets with their colourful Victorian cottages and gardens. Take plenty of deep, healthy breaths of the gorgeous cypress, pine and sea air.
Photo Geoffrey Davies
Afternoon’s perfect for a relaxing stroll round Monterey’s historic Cannery Row, former sardine capital of the world and the setting for John Steinbeck’s eponymous novel, and Old Fisherman’s Wharf, for souvenirs, whale watching trips and yummy clam chowder in edible sourdough bread bowls. Don’t worry if you can’t decide which of multiple clam chowder restaurants to visit, each claiming to be the best on the wharf– you’ll be offered plenty of free tasters along the way to help you choose.
As sunset nears it’s time to sit back and enjoy a scenic voyage by car along 17-Mile Drive and, finally, have dinner amongst the glittering fairy lights of Carmel-by-the Sea. A small town with particular charms, Carmel is known for storybook cottages and arty boutiques, dog-friendly shops and restaurants, a complete absence of street numbers, street lights, parking meters and high heels (legally forbidden without a permit) and its famous ex-mayor, Clint Eastwood.
Photo Geoffrey Davies
Stay
On previous visits to the Monterey area I’ve had pleasant enough one nighters at various hotels, lodges and B&Bs, with quaint names like Bide-a-Wee Cottage, Monarch Resort or Green Gables. But there’s only one place I’d happily stay more than once and that’s the Best Western Inn and Suites in Pacific Grove. Don’t expect quaint or luxurious here, but you will get spacious, clean, quiet, comfy and good value in a lovely woodland setting. Suites come with fridge, microwave, covered parking and well above average breakfast buffet. Guests will appreciate the surrounding gardens, complete with gazebo, fishponds and in-house Buddha.Best of all, you’re within walking distance of downtown PG and the loveliest bits of scenic coastline.
Eat
You won’t be surprised to hear that Monterey Bay is famous for seafood dining.On this visit, however, I chose to bypass the ubiquitous grilled fish and clam chowder joints and opted for award-winning Crystal Fish Japanese Restaurant.
Much of the menu is attractively displayed in glass cabinets overseen by Crystal Fish’s smiling chefs. Choose from generous portions of superfresh sushi, buttersoft sashimi, creative ‘fusion’ appetizers and classic Japanese cuisine like udon, tempura and teriyaki. I found the combination dinner totally delicious and excellent value at $21– and could barely finish the various mains served with miso soup, rice and salad. If I had one digestive inch to spare I would have been tempted by Crystal Fish’s interesting desserts such as tempura cheesecake with green tea ice cream.
Play
Monterey Bay is one of the biggest marine sanctuaries on the planet, larger than Yellowstone and deeper than the Grand Canyon. There are endless ways to enjoy its beauty and variety– diving, tidepooling, whalewatching and kayaking, to name a few. But the essential and best way to view its watery wonders is with a visit to Monterey Aquarium.
I’ve been to the Aquarium many times but I’m still gobsmacked by the 200+ exhibits showcasing over 35,000 sea creatures, from sharks, sea turtles and jellyfish to penguins, giant octopus and infinite tropical fish. There are touch pools get you up front and personal with bat rays, sea urchins and starfish.There are unmissable show feedings of frisky penguins and adorable sea otters. In the spectacular windows of the Open Sea and Kelp Forest exhibits, you’ll see divers hand-feeding sharks, fishes and other animals while they talk about this incredible undersea world in a live interactive presentation. Aquarium entry may seem steep at $30-50 a head, but I promise it’s an investment that you, and especially any young’uns with you, will remember forever.
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