Supremely scrumptious and indulgently flavoured but held back from being cloyingly rich and overdone, Chef Manish Mehrotra’s menu at Indian Accent in Mayfair is a delight for gourmands with gourmet sensibility.
With award-winning restaurants in New Delhi and New York as well as the year-old outpost here in London, Mehrotra’s culinary aim is to explore “progressive ideas in Indian cuisine while maintaining traditional integrity” to present dishes that taste distinctively Indian in character but reflect an openness toward global techniques and influences.
A few of the most delectable cases in point include Kashmiri morels with walnut power and Parmesan papad; sweet pickle pork ribs with sun-dried mango and onion seeds; and ghee roast lamb with roomali roti pancakes.
I savoured every bite of each of these courses. The morels packed a particularly wonderful wallop, and I’d definitely order those extra juicy, super sticky, fall-off-the-bone tender ribs again (and again and again). As for the lamb (served Peking duck style), I loved it too but would be curious to try out other mains that looking equally appetising. Sides of deeply flavoursome black dairy dal and a butter chicken kulcha were far from ‘just’ supporting acts in this show of fantastic flavours.
Complementing each course was a bottle of Herve Souhaut La Souteronne natural wine, a fruity light-bodied, low sulphite Gamay from the Ardeche.
Come time for dessert, I found room for (and pleasure from) makhan malai made with saffron milk, rose petal jaggery brittle, and almonds. Delicate but with a long lingering aftertaste it, followed by a small pot of fresh mint tea, provided a lovely endnote to the meal.
A three-course dinner with at Indian Accent costs £55 select one from first, second, main, bread, and side costs £55, add £9 for dessert.
With pearl-lustred walls, brass fittings and plush emerald upholstery, the restaurant was a beautiful setting for such a splendid meal.
For early evening midweek, I was impressed with how full the restaurant was. Despite what appeared to be a full house, service was swift, gracious, and helpful with explaining dishes and with choosing a wine.
Reservations are recommended, especially as Valentine’s Day approaches Speaking of which, on the 14th of February, the restaurant will serve a dedicated Valentine’s Day seven-course tasting menu, available for lunch and dinner, priced at £95 per person, and including a glass of Moët & Chandon Rosé NV on arrival.
Indian Accent is located at 16 Albemarle Street, W1S 4HW, with outlets in New Delhi and New York as well. Find out more at indianaccent.com.
