Ain’t it great when something you already love gets better? That’s definitely the delicious case with Covent Garden raw bar and fish restaurant, The Oystermen.
When I first visited The Oystermen Seafood Bar & Kitchen soon after it opened during the summer of 2017, my meal was one of the best I had that year. It was one of few restaurants I made a special effort to return to as well as the place to eat I raved about most for months.
Heading over to The Oystermen for a friendly lunch earlier this week, I found the year and a half old eatery to be doing an even tastier job than before with an updated and broadened – but still exquisitely simple – menu.
Highlights were manifold.
From the raw bar, sweet and briny Louët Feisser Select oysters from Ireland (£2.60 each) went down a charm. Cooked on the half shell, the Oysters Larxdo (with caramelised lard and black pepper, £8 for two) were a moreish slurp as well. A glass of limited run Canopy X The Oystermen LLopper Everyday Oyster Stout (5%) paired beautifully with my oysters.
A starter course of Dorset squid in n’duja and zhoug broth with baby gem (£9) nourished as much as it delighted, while a starter course of cod roe with pickled beetroot, horseradish and crème fraîche (£10) elicited a subdued by smoky heat worth savouring.
On to my main! Scottish cod with mushroom purée, roasted Roscoff onion, speck and red wine reduction (£21) hit a spot with earthy heft – though still rather light and more delicately flavoured than you might expect from reading the ingredients. It was quite the winter warmer. Sides of Old Bay chips (£3.50) and romaine with anchovy, croutons and aioli (£4.50) upped the yum.
Dark chocolate and hazelnut brownie with Armagnac and vanilla cream and clementine purée (£7) was hardly necessarily but nonetheless enjoyed immensely.
Not only has The Oystermen expanded its menu, but the Henrietta Street restaurant has doubled its size as well. Once a teensy nook, it’s now a 45-seater. It still retains a cosy feel but allows for elbow room and for its steady flow of seafood lovers dropping in for excellent food.
Service was fast, friendly and informative during my visit.
The Oystermen Seafood Bar & Kitchen is located at 32 Henrietta Street, WC2E 8NA. Find out more at oystermen.co.uk.
