2019 is the 13th anniversary of tikichris.com. I’m marking the seemingly inauspicious milestone with Lucky 13: a yearlong miniseries about 13 places to eat and drink that helped shape and define what I love about the London food and drink scene.
Among the bevy of Vietnamese eateries clustered along the Hoxton stretch of Kingsland Road is one that always has pleased my palate nightly every time I’ve visited: Viet Hoa Cafe & Mess. I’ve been dining there since 2006. Opened by two refugees, Viet Hoa was just a couple of years old at that time but still one of the first restaurants – if not actually the very first – to start out on what is now called “Pho Mile.”
Back then the restaurant wasn’t called a “cafe and mess.” It was simple Viet Hoa, a humble (and slightly dingy) little eatery serving amazingly tasty food for cheap. Prices have gone up since ’06. Dishes are plated more fancifully than when I first started going there. And the menu has some frou-frou items and dim sum on it now. As for the “mess,” it is a “secret underground hideaway … equipped with large stone tables with infrared light grills” for private events and special occasions. Very Hoxton indeed – as well as a wonderful story of how hard working entrepreneurial refugees contributed to the local economy and helped make London more scrumptious and vibrant city.
Despite the changes and the sprucing up, Viet Hoa remains a great place for affordable flavour. During my most recent visit, a lunch buddy and I (both equally of extremely hearty appetite) tried our darnedest to order as much food as we possibly could muster (along with a couple beers). Our bill came short of exceptions, roughly £30. No, not dirt cheap, but we really did splurge and go for it with gusto. When paid we had some leftovers. I’m certain, we could have left perfectly sated having only spent £15 or less person. All lunch menu mains are priced under £7.
Highlights? Practically every bite. The pork and prawn spring rolls (£4.95 per order) are as flipping gorgeous as when I tried them 13 years ago. Salted soft shell crab with chilli and spring onions (£5.10) is a total treat as well. I love the ca kho (slow cooked fish in clay pot, £8.95). But I’ve never eaten anything at Viet Hoa that wasn’t delicious.
Viet Hoa Cafe & Mess is located at 70-72 Kingsland Road, E2 8DP. Find out more at viethoa.co.uk.
Still hungry? I’ll be back soon with another taste of a Lucky 13 place to eat in London.
