Continuing her Dordognaise road trip, Judith Schrut hikes the stations of the cross in holy Rocamadour and discovers a riverside paradise in Lacave.
It turns out that the best way to work off stratospheric calories from a four course gourmet lunch in Martel lies just half an hour’s scenic drive south. That brings us to a cliffside car park in the extraordinary perched town of Rocamadour. We’re here for a vigorous afternoon workout and tour led by welcoming guide and local, Cécile May.
Rocamadour has been a famous Christian pilgrimage site since the Middle Ages. The town and its ancient holy shrines cling spectacularly to surrounding cliffs as if suspended between heaven and earth. For more than nine centuries pilgrims have trekked the 14 stations of the steep and winding Chemin de Croix or climbed the 216 steps to the top of the site’s rocky plateau, often on their knees in penance, to worship at the statue of the Black Madonna or in the Chapel of our Lady of Rocamadour.
More than one million visitors come here each year (…over 900 years? Do the maths for a mindblowing number). Notable past pilgrims include England’s King Henry II, Queen Eleanor of Aquitaine and many other penitent royals and celebrities.
Next, we’re off to a very different kind of sanctuary and our stop for the night, the chic Hotel Le Pont de l’Ouysse at Lacave. It’s scenically tucked into the hillside overlooking the banks of the River Ouysse, a tributary of the Dordogne, all emerald waters rushing below and the fairytale Château Belcastel towering above. The hotel has been in the Chambon family for five generations. We are warmly greeted by Elliott, the family’s energetic setter, and Michelin star chef Stéphane Chambon, who runs the show with father Daniel and brother Matthieu.
After check-in, Stéphane leads us to the vast hotel kitchen where he creates daily changing menus with top seasonal ingredients, much of which is from the family’s farm and fields. Stéphane treats us to a demo on the astonishing art of asparagus, using succulent white and green spears he’s handpicked from the garden that morning.
Before long it’s time for aperitifs and pre-dinner chat on the hotel’s flower decked terrace and a stunning dinner in the stylish, nature-themed restaurant. Four courses, plus choice bottles from the wine cellar, include a delightful, truffle-topped amuse bouche, dressed asparagus and roast saddle of Quercy lamb surrounded by fresh herbs and baby vegetables, followed by Stéphane’s signature Cocotte de Rocamadour and an angelic lemon tart with limoncello and basil sorbet. Then, satieted and nicely inebriated, it’s time for a good night’s sleep in the hotel’s comfy beds, lulled by the gentle sounds of the River Ouysse and sweet dreams of truffles, asparagus and Pécharmant.
Judith dined and stayed at Hotel Le Pont de l’Ouysse, 46200 Lacave. Lunch and dinner is offered a la carte or from daily changing menus at 40-92 €; children’s menu, 18 €. Judith travelled to Dordogne as a guest of Dordogne Valley Travel and Brive Dordogne Valley Airport.
Stay tuned for the next post in our Delights of the Dordogne miniseries.
