An Implosive Send-Off

Back in May, I started writing what has become a monthy column for the TriCity News, an alternative newspaper focusing on the arts, culture, and politics in eastern Monmouth County – where I lived before moving to London. The column, published every third Thursday of the month, examines what it’s like to be an expat American living in London. It’s an honor and a pleasure to write for the TriCity News, a paper that I loved reading while living in the TriCity area. My second piece, “An Implosive Send Off,” was originally published in the June 15, 2006 edition of The TriCity News. Enjoy.

An Implosive Send Off

When last I checked in, I was contemplating the sorrows of a life without triCity cuisine but looking forward to my favorite London nosh. In this new installment, my focus is more well-rounded – I’m gonna miss my home in the Garden State!

By sheer coincidence, my last full day in New Jersey was the day of the C-8 demolition. Quite the implosive end to an already internally profound week! The missus was already across the pond in search of our new home, while I busily wrangled what seemed to be a hydra of loose ends back on the home front. Suffice to say, it was an exasperating and often lonely week.

Leaving our home, the triCity area, and our dear friends wasn’t easy. I already miss much about the area. Curiously off the top of my head, I miss the little marmot that lived in the patch of woods behind our house. He was an excellent source of free entertainment over the past few years. In fact, my last day at the house, I watched David Marmot (just one of his many nicknames) climb more than halfway up a tree!

The movers, having done a thorough job of stuffing the material elements of my life into a sealed cargo container, left the house empty – eerily empty. No longer a home, as much a mortgage payment needing to be addressed (our lovely house is on the market hint hint); I gave it the once-through (and then a once-more-through) and moved on.

Requiring a bed for the evening, and having every intention of catching the C-8 implosion the next morning, I had booked a room for the night at the Berkeley Carteret Oceanfront Hotel – just a stone’s throw from the C-8. The hotel appeared fully booked with many, if not most, of its occupants there with a goal similar to mine – getting up early the next morning to watch the past crumble before our eyes.

I’m sure the toppling of the C-8 has since been written about amply and well contemplated within the pages of this fine paper and other local publications – so, I won’t go there. But, allow me to say that it was great to witness that event on so many levels … and that it left me sad to realize that I won’t be around to continue experiencing Asbury Park’s ongoing evolution firsthand. It’s been utterly fascinating watching a city transform – for better or worse – on what often seemed to be a weekly basis.

After the demolition, my friends treated me to a last breakfast at my favorite bistro-by-the-sea, Tides, which was completely packed. Utterly intrigued to find an act of destruction could bolster the income of this local business, I soaked it all in for one last, lingering time: the crowd of happy folks chewing on breakfast-y comfort, my tablemates sharing their experiences of growing up in and around Asbury Park, the sunlight streaming through the windows.

After breakfast, we said our goodbyes, and I slipped into limbo – running odd last minute errands and pondering my new episode of life that fast approached. I don’t remember much about the rest that day, other than that the weather was perfect when I left for Liberty International Airport in Newark.

Of course, it was raining when my flight touched down at London Gatwick International the following morning. But, since then, the weather’s been mostly sunny. To the best of my knowledge, nothing imploded upon my arriving in London. And to be honest, hardly a building shrugged upon my return. In fact, London is much as I remembered, quirky and resolute … and continual.

Then, two weeks into being here, my wife clued me in on an interesting piece of news: One Westminster Bridge, notorious for being listed among London’s ugliest buildings, was scheduled for demolition the morning of May 25. This hexagonal building, known as the Greater London Council Island Block (GLCIB), had originally been constructed in the early seventies for government purposes but, owing to a lengthy list of costly uh-ohs, had been empty for around twenty years. Among the well intentioned blunders was the inclusion of state-of-the-art external automatic solar blinds that would lower for forty-five minutes every time the sun came out – even for a few seconds – and eventually wore out and got stuck in the down position.

In place of the GLCIB, a fourteen-story luxury hotel with 900 suites, business lounges, executive meeting rooms, a ballroom, 2 restaurants, a brasserie, bars, health spa, gymnasium and indoor pool is to be erected and to be ready for occupancy by the 2012 Olympics.

So yes, of course, I went to the demolition, where a rather large crowd of spectators – not as big as the C-8 crowd, but still pretty big – had convened. However, unlike the C-8’s demise, the commencement of the GLCIB’s downfall was mostly ceremonial, as the complete demolition is expected to take twelve to sixteen weeks of chipping away. I suppose that, if London can handle this eyesore for thirty-plus years, several weeks more won’t be a problem.

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London Daily Photo: BOOM

On the way to Moorgate Station

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Untitled

We come together
to be together
much less often than we probably could
and
definitely should.

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London Weekly Photo: Banks of the Thames at Low Tide

Banks of the Thames at low tide

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Goodbye Chili Cheese Fries

Back in May, I started writing what has become a monthy column for TriCityNews, an alternative newspaper focusing on the arts, culture, and politics in eastern Monmouth County – where I lived before moving to London. The column, published every third Thursday of the month, examines what it’s like to be an expat American living in London. It’s an honor and a pleasure to write for the TriCityNews, a paper that I loved reading while living in the TriCity area. My first piece, “Goodbye chili cheese fries,” was originally published in the May 18, 2006 edition of The TriCity News. Enjoy.

Goodbye Chili Cheese Fries

To get the gist of this report all you need to know is that my wife, Emilia, and I have recently moved to London from West Long Branch. It would probably also help to know that I’ve lived in London before (from 2001-2003). However, unlike last time which was a temporary gig with a leaving date in mind, this time might just be for the long haul. It’s certainly great to be back in “the Smoke” – still, leaving my home on the Shore was hard, as I found out during my last few weeks in Jersey:

Okay, so now that my move to London is imminent, I’m finding that many otherwise taken for granted aspects of my life here on the Jersey Shore to be radiating quite the rosy hue. Of course, I’m speaking figuratively of all sorts of little things and not literally of the pollution-enriched sunsets over Sandy Hook Bay.

Also, since this overseas move is really on (I’ve got a week left in this country), I’ve been making sure to treat myself to one last taste of my favorite local cuisines. In the past week or so, I’ve hit the local pizza place (Attilio’s in West Long Branch is my fave), the local bagel place (Bagel Oven in Red Bank please!), plus a few other eateries that I’ll really miss having in my near proximity. There’s the humble Far East Taste in Eatontown, where Richard, the owner, often greets diners with tales of the fresh fish he personally caught that day – and how he plans to personally prepare it.

Moby’s in Highlands, too, (with views of the Shrewsbury River, Sandy Hook Drawbridge, and the Atlantic, not to mention its raw bar, excellent lobster, steamers, and fried clams) has almost been a summer weekend standard for the past few years.

And then, there are all those great places in Asbury Park: the elegant and refined Harrison with its “urban fare,” the comfort food dream spot Chat & Nibble, and Taka with its absolutely scrumptious Japanese menu and gorgeous decor.

Not to be unmentioned is, perhaps, my favorite AP eatery: Tides, a Bistro-by-the-Sea. I don’t so much love this place for its food (which is good), or its decor (which is okay), or even for its excellent location (right on the boardwalk with gigantic windows that get so much sunlight that sunglasses come in handy) … but for its off-kilter vibe. The place is just bizarre. For example, d’ever have a waiter jonesing for a cigarette to the point of begging you for it – and then 10 minutes later, completely forgetting he’d asked you and that you’d told him that you didn’t have any cigarettes, begging yet again? More so, d’ever have a waiter (different from the nicotine craving one) take five minutes to share with you a monologue about how “lazy” he is – while the whole time you’re wondering “when is this guy gonna take my order?” Or how about this one: d’ever have your coffee mug filled and just after taking one sip, have someone waiting to refill it immediately. Now, it might be one thing if I were describing some divey diner in east bumble but, this is “bistro-by-the-sea” for crying out loud! Tides has the feel of a first date with a stranger on acid (and I sincerely appreciate their efforts for that very fact).

And, of course, there’s the Windmill in West End where I recently had a near religious experience while chowing down on a hotdog with some chili cheese fries. Man, it was really delicious.

Living in the TriCities area ensures easy access to great pizza and bagels. When last I lived in London, I took it upon myself to seek out pizza and bagels that suited my Jersey-fied taste buds. Of course, pizza and bagels can be found in London … but my endeavor for premium quality ultimately proved fruitless. I remain open to the possibility of some day finding a perfect pie or bagel in London, but I admit that I am a dubious.

Now don’t get me wrong. London’s a fine place for a foodie to settle (especially if one has the means to travel about the rest of Europe). Very soon after my plane touches down, I will be at my favorite curry house in Brixton, my favorite Vietnamese restaurant in Shoreditch, my favorite … (you get the picture). And I’m already anticipating opportunities to visit gourmet destinations outside London, such as San Sebastian, Napoli, and, of course, Paris, as well as other equally edible towns that are less renown for their local fare. Edinburgh (one of my all time favorite restaurants is here) and Budapest readily come to mind. Still, I will miss the yumminess of the Jersey Shore.

Another aspect to TriCity eatin’ that I will miss is how seriously folks take ordering their food. Jersey’s the alone place I’ve ever lived were bagels, pizzas, and hot dogs are asked to be well-done (which is how I’ve learned to best appreciate these treats). Perhaps, people make such requests elsewhere in the world, but Jersey’s where I heard it first.

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