The level of kitsch and pretence was nearly as copious as the amount of booze in the cocktails during a recent posthumous birthday lunch for King Edward VII, hosted by The King’s Ginger at Berry Bros & Rudd, with The King himself on hand to preside over the merriment. As wackily anachronistic as the celebration was, the setting could not have been more authentic or historically spot on. Of course as is so often the case with too many weird and wonderful experiences, there had to be a hitch.
The King’s Ginger is the “emphatically” ginger liqueur created by Berry Bros (Britain’s oldest wine and spirit merchant) in 1903 for King Edward VII to “stimulate and revivify His Majesty”. It is zesty stuff indeed and – as I alongside a small group of drinks writers discovered during the lunch – makes an excellent base for fabulous cocktails.
Held upstairs in the Long Room where little has changed since the 1600s (except for a magnificent Cuban mahogany ceiling introduced in the early 20th century), our feast (high quality British stodge befitting the dreary late autumn gloom outside) featured a range of marvelous cocktails made especially for the occasion by Harvey Nichols Head Bartender Ian Goodman. Goodman’s genius shone through with tasty little numbers like the Playboy Prince:
25ml of The King’s Ginger; 20ml No. 3 London Dry Gin; 20ml Noilly Prat Dry; three drops of grapefruit bitters; stirred over ice and strained into a coupette glass and garnished with orange twist.
At the head of the table sat The King – or Edward the Caresser as was whispered about him in his youth – regaling his celebrants with eponymous Edwardian tales of his life as a monarch. It was goofy fun fueled by gingery cocktails and an evocative setting. And whomever the dude pretending to be Edward actually was, he did a fantastic job rolling with the ad lib and keeping in character. I felt as if I’d drunkenly stumbled into a scene from Downton Abbey. Bravo!
Yes, everything about my lunch was lovely, and a fine time was had … aside from one aspect. A fellow representing Berry Bros who stayed with us for the duration of the lunch was way too eager to ham it up feigning a disparagingly exaggerated imitation of an American accent while recounting stereotype-laden tales about folks visiting London from the US. I’m not sure which was worse: that this guy had the cheek to carry on insulting my home country while fully aware that another guest and I were Americans or that much of what he made fun of seemed to be at the expense of customers who, having travelled across the ocean to visit London, had made it a point to step inside his establishment and express interest in the products and history.
I have heaps of respect for Berry Bros and reckon the company performs at the top of its game and that its St James’s Street shop is a strong contender for the best wine retailer in London and among the very best in the world. I was chuffed to have been invited to this event, and I encourage anyone at all interested in wine and spirits, history or London society to pay Berry’s age-old and beautifully kept address a visit. Wine lovers would be wise to browse their online shop as well. But those representing the company might do a better job ensuring guests are made to feel welcome and appreciated. The buffoonery of the man in question did not come across as a friendly ribbing or even a good natured but full-on roast. It was a distastefully broad and annoying piss take – and all but ruined an otherwise impeccable and rather entertaining afternoon.
Sorry to end my delicious report on such a sour note.
The King’s Ginger is available (at a recommended retail price of £19.95 for a half litre bottle) at Berry Bros & Rudd, most Waitrose outlets and online at kingsginger.com. Berry Bros & Rudd is located at 3 St James’s Street. Find out more at bbr.com.
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