Bird of Smithfield is the same great restaurant set in a five-storey townhouse with rooftop bar across from Smithfield Market as it has been since launching in 2013 – just now with a new Head Chef, Tommy Boland.
If my recent dining experience to see what’s cooking in Boland’s kitchen is any indication, Bird of Smithfield should continue to soar high and become an even smarter choice for sophisticated, full flavoured contemporary cuisine.
I really loved my meal – a seven-course tasting menu (£65 per person plus £39 with optional wine flight). Highlights included … oh hell, every bite was a highlight:
- Roasted Isle of Orkney scallops with crushed cauliflower cheese, truffle and jus gras;
- Pan-fried foie gras with shaved turnip, kibbled onion, and roasted duc consommé;
- Warm salad of sole with mussel and ink beignet, taramasalata, clementine dressing, and fennel;
- Roasted wild turbot with hand-rolled farfalle, clams, celery, Swiss chard, and shellfish butter;
- Roasted veal sweetbreads with shaved cauliflower, mimolette, toasted almond, Iberico ham and truffle;
- Lemon curd with blood orange, Arlette biscuit, and orange sorbet; and
- (Second dessert!!!) rhubarb and ginger beer fool with citrus beignets, poached rhubarb, and yoghurt Chantilly.
The sole, in particular, was a wonder, and not least because of that mussel and ink beignet on the side. The veal wowed as well. Both (and the other five dishes) demonstrated Chef Boland’s confident and thoughtful palate and an approach to cooking that was a balance of invention and restraint.
Wines were paired well with courses. I was especially impressed with the Verdejo, (Pizpireta, Rueda, Spain) served with the sole.
Service during my visit commenced slightly out of step with timings from the bar and kitchen but soon caught up with grace.
I’m keen to keep an eye on Bird for future dining delights and am happy to recommend it to anyone seeking exceptional food.
Bird of Smithfield is located at 26 Smithfield Street, EC1A 9LB. Find out more at birdofsmithfield.com.
